VANCOUVER has no shortage of what's known in the trade as CFDs (Casual Fine Dining) restaurants, such as Earls, which make up a major sector of our dining scene.
Not quite so obvious is how they've been instrumental in driving our wine culture over the last couple of decades, particularly in the realm of wines by the glass and the enthusiastic support of B.C. wines early in the game.
Earls also prides itself on its long-term winery relationships, a point borne out by the decision to award Earls Rascal house wine to the Okanagan's respected CedarCreek, which has had wines on the list for more than a few years, in fact ever since sI can remember.
I had a chance to taste these wines recently and was suitably impressed, even if I might give the edge to the quite floral, tropical and gently citrus The Rascal Next Door White ($7.50, 6 ozs., $10.50 , 9 ozs., or $28 a bottle), a very food-friendly drop that's a slam dunk with Earls' celebrated Jeera Chicken, wahoo (fish) taco, and plenty of other plates.
The Rascal Next Door Red 2011, a medium-bodied red (mainly Merlot, Cab. Sauv. and Pinot Noir), sports red berry, cherry and some savoury notes, and is equally food-friendly and a fair match with the likes of beef carpaccio and deviled egg. (same pricing).
Earls is a favourite late-night haunt for industry types, thanks in part to the reserve wine list, which often has some pretty spectacular deals tucked away, such as CedarCreek's superb, deep-plummy and damson-toned, soft-tannin Platinum Merlot 2008 (a slam dunk with Earls' impressive, 16 oz. bone-in, signature wet-rub rib-eye) that goes for a paltry $50, and gets poured into a "proper" glass! All of these wines add up to excellent value at their respective levels, which, really, is what it's all about.
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Valentine's: It's all about drinking pink
Well, it doesn't have to be. But here's a trio of dutifully pink drinks with a difference that will definitely add a seductive little something to the festivities.
? Alliance Loire Rosé d'Anjou Les Legeriens 2011 (Loire)
Here's a passionate drop if ever there was one. Made mainly with Gamay and something else; bright rose to orange colours in the glass with strawberry notes on top that follow through on the intensely fruity palate for a mouth-filling, long-lasting drop. Good with grilled chicken or just for gazing ($14.99 and up at private stores, 89 pts)
? Haywire, The Bub in Pink
It definitely is pink (from Pinot Noir with Chardonnay), a really pretty pale almost candy-floss looking pink that promises with hints of cherry and green apple on the nose and delivers just that in a no-nonsense palate, buoyed by a bevy of bodacious bubbles, that begs to be quaffed and easily is ($24.95, 89 pts.)
? Crofts Pink Port N/V
I'm sure some old port lovers would be turning in their graves if they saw what the world has come to, but this fun take on a classic is just that. Who knew? Fortified rosé indeed. Bright red berries in the glass that do taste pretty porty and might have you craving a little chocolate to go along, if you want to sip it neat or over ice. Or, you could top it up with soda and add a splash of bitters with a slice of orange, for a more "adult" drink in the hot tub. And what you don't finish on Valentine's Day you'll have plenty of fun with at the next party (BCLS $19.99).
Tim Pawsey covers wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: on Twitter @hiredbelly or email [email protected].
