Tasting at last week’s California wine fair was a bit like being a kid in the proverbial candy store.
The room was so full of Golden State iconic names that it was tough to know where to turn next.
It’s no surprise that California offers such appeal. After all, way back when, in the last century, it was California and Australia that brought the new world of wine to Vancouver several years before anyone imagined that the Okanagan would ultimately blossom beyond bulk producer.
There is, of course, no hardship in tasting your way through the likes of Ridge, Silver Oak, Heitz, Grgich Hills and so on. No shortage of serious drops here!
But California also proves time and again that much of its appeal lies in diversity and a pioneering spirit that harks back to the state’s beginnings. Who knew, for instance, that Albarino (88 points) and Gruner Veltliner (89 points) had made it to Clarksburg (Sacramento), courtesy of Dancing Coyote Wines?
You can splurge or you can save. There’s value to be found at almost every level.
All too easily overlooked are some pretty tasty sparklers, especially from the likes of Gloria Ferrer, which is an offshoot of Spanish wine dynasty and Cava specialist Freixenet.
Sonoma Brut N/V yields a foamy mousse-and-plush, but focused, palate that balances richness and good acidity with apple and pear notes ($26-$27, 90 points).
Another sparkling with more than respectable European lineage, Domaine Chandon California Brut Classic N/V sports definite brioche notes with baked apple and citrus before a crisp, clean end ($24-$25, 90 points).
What intrigued me was a sense that California Pinot Noir may be taking a turn more towards its European counterpart, as opposed to being all too often shaped in something resembling the spirit of Shiraz.
Do some digging and you can find surprising value from areas such as Monterey.
Esser Pinot Noir 2013 (Monterey) offers cherry notes on top before a medium-bodied, quite plush but also savoury and earthy palate, with red fruit, strawberry, spicy hints and easy tannins. At $21.79, it represents excellent value (91 points). Grilled lamb chops, please.
Cline Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2013: Cline may be famously known for old vines Zin and Mourvedre but this stylish, quite layered Pinot is also worth a nod for its darker, mocha strawberry tones with some herbal, cedary hints ($27.99, 90+ points).
Also worthy, Cline’s value-priced, well-managed oak below fruit Sonoma Coast Chardonnay (90 points), which you should be able to find for around $23 through May (90 points).
On the heftier side, Pedroncelli Dry Creek Zinfandel 2012 sports ripe red berry fruit with mulberry, pepper, spice and leather notes in a plush package ($17-$19, 90 points).
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As promised last week, here are some highlights of this year’s Okanagan Spring Wine Festival Best of Varietal Awards.
I’d be tracking down some of these, as well as others: Time Estate Syrah 2012 (Black Sage); Wild Goose Stoney Slope Riesling 2013 (Okanagan Falls); Baillie Grohman Blancs de Noir Rosé 2014 (Creston); Moraine Estate Pinot Noir 2012 (Naramata); Mount Boucherie Family Reserve Summit 2012 (Okanagan/Similkameen); Moon Curser Cabernet Merlot 2012 (Osoyoos); Inniskillin Dark Horse Cabernet Franc 2012 (Oliver); Pentage Gamay Noir Estate 2013 (Okanagan Falls), and more. Full details at owfs.com.
Tim Pawsey writes about wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: [email protected].
