FOR reasons that can only be guessed at, the capacious, glass-walled space on the northwest side of the Lynn Valley Town Centre triangle has become the spot where restaurants go to die.
I don't know why - I thought both of the previous tenants had plenty of potential.
The Rocky Mountain Flatbread Company was family friendly, made fresh food daily using organic and locally sourced ingredients, and took pride in running a green operation. But sustainability costs money, and families don't drink much alcohol, which offers the biggest profit in an industry that has notoriously small margins.
Cedar Grove Restaurant seemed to address those issues, eliminating the kids' play area and offering an expanded selection of drinks. It had a roomy patio and decent food, but it didn't have much personality. It didn't immediately jump to the forefront when considering options for dining out.
Which brings us to the latest leaseholder, Browns Social house. Could this finally be the winning formula?
I dropped in early on a Sunday night to beat the crowds that have been reportedly storming the place since it opened just over a month ago. It looks sharp: brown leather booths and banquets warm the space, subtle wood screens add privacy, the stylish script suggesting you "socialize" adds punch. This room is sexy - something that Lynn Valley doesn't have loads of - and boasts personality in spades.
There's a great drinks list for grownups, with cocktail, beer and wine options, - including the house beer and wine for $4 a glass. Each day between 3 and 6 p.m. the restaurant sells wings and dry ribs for $6. (Deals! Something we also don't see enough of.)
The rest of the menu is appealing as well - lots of classics: nachos and calamari, French onion soup, pizzas, burgers, chicken, ribs and steak.
But there are also the Asian-spun bowls and stir-fries that set Browns apart; plus its signature Cowboy and Cowgirl salads: the first a toss of blackened chicken, feta, house greens, walnuts, dates, black beans and honey lime vinaigrette, and the second a more subtle mix dressed in apple-miso vinaigrette.
Our cheap wings were just as tasty as the ones sold full price after 6 p.m. - plump and juicy with a lick of tangy hot sauce sided by blue cheese - while our cheap dry ribs were sizzling and extra salty.
Granville Island lager was just the thing to wash it all down, and with the Canucks game broadcasting on several giant screens throughout the restaurant, it's clear Browns has the sports market nailed.
We moved on to our mains.
Blazing Cashew Curry proved to be the only mild disappointment. It wasn't blazing - it wasn't even hot, actually. But the creamy curry was loaded with crisp peppers, nuts and generous mouthfuls of chicken. The #28 Dragon Bowl was delicious - chock full of teriyaki chicken, fragrant coconut rice and crunchy veggies, all littered with red cabbage and drizzled in spicy yogurt sauce. On paper, it sounds healthy, but I don't believe it. This tone perfect dish tastes decadent.
Our server was helpful and just the right amount of attentive - though a word of warning: I suspect staff must get challenged during busier times. Patience is key with buzzy new restaurants. The bill for two of us, including two beer each, was $66.64, including HST.
So to recap: great room, drink and appetizer deals, Canucks (and no doubt Lions this Sunday), tasty food, solid service. This time, it's a winning formula -I'm sure of it. Browns is at 1255 Lynn Valley Rd., North Vancouver; 604-971-5299.
dlancaster@nsnews.com
