Andy Dawson is sitting at the bar in Gerard at Sutton Place.
Between measured sips of her Moét, the woman at the other end is staring at him intently. More precisely (no offence to the eminently handsome Mr. Dawson), she's actually staring at his hat, which she obviously feels is quite unusual/comical/silly. Choose any one you like. Mr. Dawson's bowler hat, which he wears everywhere (except, perhaps, in bed), always gets plenty of attention.
Dawson and his brother are the brains (and the bowlers) behind Broker's Gin, a relative newbie that's taking the hallowed world of gin by storm. Broker's London Dry Gin is indeed very good.
In fact, it regularly wins big in some pretty serious competitions around the globe, such as New York's Ultimate Spirits Challenge World's Best Gin) and Ultimate Cocktail Challenge (World's Best Dry Martini), where it's beaten out some of the biggest names in the gin biz.
Crystal clear in the glass, zesty-citrus, properly junipered, rich, smooth and slightly peppery, Broker's is a purist gin drinker's dream, which is one reason why it's climbing the charts as the gin of choice for old-school martini aficionados. One more is its value price: $27.99 BCLS (750 ml.).
That very focused taste profile is deliberate, explains Dawson. He says Broker's genesis is founded on the fact that, historically, gin was the only spirit distilled in England. Broker's is made in a 200-year-old distillery outside of London using a classic copper-pot still and a time-honoured recipe that relies on only the traditional botanicals. That's in stark contrast to the current trend.
"Over the last 10 years there's been a rash of new gin distillers bringing craft gins to market, which is a good thing, as it's all helping in gin's renewal. But most of those makers are using ingredients historically not used," explains Dawson.
Such as?"They include a whole variety of flowers, like lavender, dandelion and honeysuckle; fruits and berries such as peach and raspberries. Seeds, weeds, nuts, Frankincense and Myrrh. You name it, they're all in gin," he laments.
"Even coconut. You taste it and think what is this? It tastes like a cross between gin and Malibu. It's very, very weird."
That's not to say the Broker's chaps don't appreciate creative drinks, or good bartending, when they see it. The Broker's Promise combines two ounces (60 ml) each of Broker's and Cranberry juice with 1 oz. (30 ml) of 7Up (or something similar) with two sliced strawberries. Put the strawberries in an old-fashioned glass, cover with ice cubes and stir, for a delicious, and very festive, easy-sipping crowd pleaser.
If the gin itself is inspired, the Broker's bowler (a miniature adorns every bottle cap) is sheer genius, as it succinctly proclaims Broker's origins and London Dry Gin's roots, right back to the very heart of the city's financial core where any self respecting stockbroker or banker wouldn't have been caught dead without bowler or brolly.
Oh, and just in case you were thinking bowler hats and the like are a thing of the past, stay tuned.. .
Belly's Budget Best: Selbach Riesling "Fish Label" 2012 (Mosel): Fresh, zesty and vibrant with lemon lime and a stony streak with well-balanced fruit and acidity. Food-friendly and appealingly low alcohol (10.5 per cent), BCLS $16.95, 89 points.
Tim Pawsey covers food and wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: on Twitter @hiredbelly or email [email protected].
