When you go to the liquor store, there’s a very good chance you’ll buy a wine with its variety clearly identified on the label.
There’s nothing wrong with that. It’s just the way we tend to be in this part of the (new) world, where our tastes and buying habits have been very much shaped by California, Australia and, yes, in recent years, B.C.
In a way it has evolved from a form of reverse snobbism, a rebellion, if you will, against the now happily outdated notion that if you didn’t know what went into Bordeaux or Cote Rotie (or even Champagne) then you probably didn’t really deserve to be drinking it.
Thankfully times change. Or, should I say, they come full circle. In reality, blending has always been a foundation of winemaking, whether by happenstance through “field blends” (the traditional mixing of several varieties in one vineyard) or through the winemaker’s desire to make a simple wine more interesting.
Here’s a potpourri of white blends that just might put a spring in your step and make you forget to think about what’s in them:
Monte del Fra Ca de Magro 2011
If I listed all the indigenous varieties that winemaker and owner Marika Bonomo uses I’d run out of space, and, no offence, you might not even recognize a few. I didn’t. Swirl and sniff it and you’ll find floral and honey notes, followed by a basket of lemons, peaches and other orchard fruits, wrapped in a luscious, zingy package, (BCLS $19.95, 91 points).
Trivento Amado Sur 2012
Here’s Torrontes with a bit of a twist, a splash of Viognier and Chardonnay blended in, that just makes a charming but sometimes understated grape a little less ordinary. Look for some lemon and mineral on the nose, followed by a surprisingly textured mouthfeel with melon and zesty notes (BCLS $14.99, $12.99 if you’re quick until March 31, 89 points).
Romain Duvernay Cotes du Rhone Blanc
Floral, peach and citrus on the nose followed by a very clean palate, with stone fruit, apricot and slight mineral hints before a crisp finish. Around $20, private wine stores. Or, worth ordering by the case from BCLS, 90 points.
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Spain is in the spotlight this month at B.C. Signature Liquor Stores, with an interesting range of wines from six regions that in each instance truly underscore the variety and value Spain has to offer.
They include supple and gently earthy Elias Mora Tinta de Toro 2011 (Toro), BCLS $19.99, 90 points; Creamy, organic Paras Balta Brut (Cava), BCLS $19.99, 89 points; and plush, cassis-toned Torres Celeste Crianza 2010 (Duero), BCLS $24.99, 91 points. If you’re close to 39th and Cambie street BCLS April 4 or 5 (3-6 p.m.) drop by for free tastes of wines and matching tapas.
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The 34th annual California Wine Fair rolls into town April 22, 7-9.30 pm, at the Vancouver Convention Centre, with proceeds benefitting the Arts Club’s community-based programs and youth education programs.
This year’s edition is the biggest yet, with some 180 wineries on hand (pouring around 450 wines). Among many notable names coming: Duckhorn, Heitz, Ridge, Robert Mondavi, Silver Oak, and more. Tix: $89 ($69 if you come with seven friends), from artsclub.com/events/california-wine-fair or 604-687-1644.
Tim Pawsey writes about wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: [email protected].
