No matter how hard I might try, I know I’ll have a tough time convincing you that wine judging is hard work. But it is.
Working through a hundred plus wines in a day takes a fair degree of stamina, which is also why it’s as exhausting as it is rewarding.
Last week I was privileged to spend the best part of three days judging at the 2014 B.C. Wine Awards, with a very focused group of wine judges from B.C., across Canada and one from Kansas City. I’m not going to list them, but let me just say that they represent a truly impressive cross-section of expertise.
The other key ingredient to successful judging is the back room where the wines are sorted, coded and poured for blind tasting. B.C. has been long blessed with the skills of Marjorie King (a grape grower herself) who, when it comes to organizing judgings, can be credited with setting one of the highest bars on the continent.
The right setting also enhances the process. As it turned out, with its collegial personality, super staff, and cosy character feeling, the Naramata Heritage Inn was the perfect place to judge.
When the spitting was all done, I’d say we came up with a pretty convincing lineup of winners. The following is a rundown of what’s new and noteworthy (a few highlights from this year’s medal haul).
This year the Okanagan Wine Festival introduced a Platinum tier, representing the top one per cent of entries, with one wine singled out from that select group for the sure-to-be-much-coveted Premier’s Award. While there has been the odd platinum nod in the past, this year marks the first formal ranking.
Premier’s Award: See Ya Later Ranch Rover Shiraz — Viognier 2012
Platinum Awards
See Ya Later Ranch Rover Shiraz – Viognier 2012
Baillie Grohman Cabernet Franc 2012
Quails Gate “The Boswell” Syrah 2012
Silkscarf Viognier 2013
Spierhead Pinot Gris 2013
These wines really do represent the pinnacle of all the entries, and comprise an interesting cross-section of varieties and wineries.
As you can see, there’s a strong showing for Syrah/Shiraz, a theme that echoed through the contest. Both of those awarded were extremely convincing contenders.
With its splash of Viognier blended in, See Ya Later Ranch is a juicy, peppery nod to Cote Roti, and offers great value at BCLS $22.
Quails Gate “The Boswell” (from the winery’s 25th anniversary range) sports all the right stuff, with delicious, meaty-gamey notes wrapped in focused fruit and fine tannins ($40).
Not to be overlooked by any means is the impressive haul of gold medals for Syrah and blends (Sandhill Phantom Creek, Stag’s Hollow, Thornhaven, Moon Curser).
Baillie Grohman Cabernet Franc (powerful and polished, with a seductive, juicy acidity and elegant viscosity) while made in Creston, is actually Okanagan grown.
Winemaker Dan Barker is a stickler for using the best fruit he can find. Point proven. Silkscarf’s Viognier is no stranger to praise. A textbook offering, it won Best of Varietal in the Okanagan Spring Festival.
Rounding out this elite group, Spierhead’s well-structured, tropical-toned Pinot Gris rose to the top through a field (as tends to be the case in B.C.) of varying styles.
In the “don’t-knock-it-until-you’ve-tried-it” category, it was gratifying to see Saxon Winery’s plush and plummy Léon Millot come through for a gold, while more esoteric but still worthy Mooberry Raspberry and Meadow Vista Ostara Honey Wine also grabbed gold.
I’m reluctant to single out wines that we collectively medalled. Suffice it to say that any wine winning gold here was subjected to pretty rigorous scrutiny and deserves to be at that level. Find a link to all the medals at hiredbelly.com.
Belly’s Budget Best
La Tarasque Old Vines Grenache 2011
What do you get when you drop the talented winemaker from a Napa cultist into the heart of the southern Rhone? Grenache, with bags of character, lifted red fruit up front followed by a medium-bodied palate that’s grippy but elegant with vibrant mulberry, peach and cherry before a long finish. Think spicy Italian sausage with lashings of garlic and pasta (BCLS $17.99, 91 points).
Tim Pawsey writes about wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: [email protected].
