Last week, cruising the aisles of the local liquor store, the Hired Belly noticed the selection of local brews had improved immensely.
The near monsoon outside had me craving something dark and warming, maybe a decent porter or stout. Ever since I tasted Central City Russian Imperial Porter a couple of weeks ago, I'd been in the mood for more of the same.
You'd have to be under a rock not to know about B.C.'s craft beer boom. But the slew of porters and stouts now on offer is impressive and irresistible.
These are serious beers, the kinds of beers that might even make you give up wine. (Well, at least for a night, anyway). They're heavy hitters with higher alcohol. You'll want to share or think twice about finishing a (big) bottle on your own. But even if not for the faint of heart, they're delicious. Almost a meal in their own right, they're also superbly food friendly.
Here's a few that are more than worthy of attention.
Central City Russian Imperial Porter: Seriously dark in the glass with a generous head and roasted notes on top. Solid on the palate but not heavy, with mocha and molasses hints. Tough to leave half this bottle. Perfect with a pork pie or two, nine per cent ABV, 650 millilitres (BCLS, $12.90).
Lighthouse Oyster Imperial Stout: Likely B.C.'s first true "oyster" beer, with fresh shucked Okeover oysters neatly chopped up (with brine and all) added to the brew. Even the shells went into the mash, to be later removed. Well, I wasn't disappointed. This is a superbly rich and creamy stout, with serious heft. It also has a slightly mineral quality, which I liked, although any overt oyster flavour is barely discernible (650 ml. $6-$8, private stores. Maybe still at a few BCLS). Think Irish stew or strong Cheddar cheese.
Phillips Black Jackal Imperial Coffee Stout: A nice pour, with good mocha-like foam and texture, roasted coffee notes on top but also a slightly vegetal character on the nose. The vaunted espresso integrates well on the palate and it did taste pretty coffee-ish, although serious java-heads would maybe want more (650 ml., BCLS $5.50).
Brassneck Inertia Russian Imperial Stout: If Brassneck was in my 'hood I'd be there once a week at least. The brewery (2148 Main St.) is a co-pro between Alibi Room owner Nigel Springthorpe and former Steamworks brewmaster Conrad Gmoser. They're both award-winners in their past endeavours and it shows. Presumably the name Inertia has to do with the nine per cent ABV (which isn't actually indicated as this is a growler fill). The bottle is a thing of beauty with opaque lettering on a black background. In the glass it's heady, with chocolate overtones and a rich but clean palate with complex layers; smooth and mouth-filling. Only at the brewery. But worth the trip.
Belly's Bestn Elias Mora (Toro) Tinta de Toro 2011: Here's a cut-above Tempranillo that typifies the kind of value Spain delivers, from rugged and rocky Toro, which is in the west, around the Duero river, not far from the border with north-east Portugal. Bright red berries up front, with a generous, juicy, cherry-raspberry, anise and quite spicy palate, well structured tannins and a lengthy close. Think pasta with tomato-based sauces or barbecued meats (BCLS Specialty $19.99, 90 points).
Tim Pawsey covers food and wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: rebelmouse.com/hiredbelly, on Twitter @hiredbelly or email [email protected].
