One sure sign a country’s fortunes are on the rise is when they hold a tasting and half the city turns out.
Such was the case last week when the Aussies decided to celebrate Australia day in style, and poured more than the odd drop to keep everyone happy. Few countries have had to bear the brunt of the recession as has Australia, which has seen its fortunes fade in the face of over-supply and what many perceived to be a homogenization of the industry compounded by a parade of Yellow Tail wannabees.
However, this most recent tasting suggests that it wouldn’t be too hard to rekindle our love affair with Down Under for quite a few reasons, some of which may surprise you. While the predictions of doom and gloom were swirling, Australian winemakers were taking a long, hard look at what they could do better. And doing it.
I’m not here to diss Shiraz. Chances are it will always be king, and there were some killer wines here to prove that. But these days they’re much less extracted (“Less Parkerized,”quipped one winemaker), more regionally focused, and in many cases much more drinkable (make that food-friendly).
The first surprise of the day came early on when everyone (as far as I could tell) was wowed by the beautifully balanced cherry- and plum-toned, gently spicy Yangarra Estate Old Vines Grenache 2011 (McLaren Vale). It was supple, rounded and elegant, perhaps further enhanced by its concrete egg ferment. And, if you’d poured it a decade ago, it would have probably been dismissed as un-Australian. Grab it at BCLS $25.99, 91 points.
At times it seemed Australia was awash in a sea of Cabernet Merlot, based on a firm belief in some quarters that Cabernet was “incomplete” as a single variety. Referred to as “the doughnut” it was remedied with a good (sometimes excessive) dollop of Merlot. Not only has that changed but there were likely more bottles of Aussie Cab here than we’ve seen in the entire last 10 years.
Case in point: Jim Barry’s “The Cover Drive” Cabernet Sauvignon 2011. Vibrant red and black notes on top followed by a well-balanced plummy palate with some bramble and cedar notes before a long close. A blend of Clare and Coonawarra fruit. (BCLS $29.99, 90 points).
On the topic of Cabernet, here’s a worthy bargain Jacob’s Creek Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2012. From Australia’s most celebrated Cabernet region comes this value-priced drop that delivers good varietal expression with some classic minty notes and solid cassis notes. Not fancy but very drinkable at BCLS $16.99, 89 points.
Also not to be missed: Coldstream Hills Pinot Noir 2012 (Yarra Valley). From one of the earlier “cool-climate” areas that prefaced the shift to more regional wines, this is a medium-bodied pinot with lifted cherry and raspberry notes on top followed by a silky palate with cherry and earthy notes to close (Everything Wine $29.99, 91 points).
It was also good to reconnect with an old stalwart that has also broken the mold since Day 1: Chateau Tahbilk Marsanne 2011. This stalwart’s been around the Aussie shelves almost as long as there’s been an Aussie section.
Interestingly, this remains one of the largest, if not the largest, single plantings of Marsanne in the world. Look for honeysuckle and other floral notes on the nose, with citrus and juicy acidity on the palate.
Drink it with rich seafood such as scallops or lobster. Put some away for a few years and you’ll be very well rewarded (BCLS $19.99, 90 points).
Tim Pawsey covers food and wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: rebelmouse.com/hiredbelly, on Twitter @hiredbelly or email [email protected].
