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A tasty week for Top Chef

WHEN the invitation came to dine at Whistler's Bearfoot Bistro for a screening of Top Chef Canada, my journalistic instincts kicked into fifth gear.

WHEN the invitation came to dine at Whistler's Bearfoot Bistro for a screening of Top Chef Canada, my journalistic instincts kicked into fifth gear.

Filming wrapped last fall, so while North Shore-raised competitor Jimmy Stewart is still in the running for Top Chef on the show, in real life he's back in the kitchen as the sous chef at the bistro. Since the March premiere, the restaurant has been screening the reality series every Monday night and offering a special menu to match, created by Stewart and executive chef Melissa Craig.

There was a reason (I deduced), the restaurant picked this week to invite media to join in.

"He must be getting kicked off," I told my managing editor matter-of-factly. "He's so skilled, but he keeps making foam and the judges hate it."

"He probably wins immunity during the Quickfire Challenge this week," I said to my husband. "That would make sense. He's great under pressure."

"I think he must come out on top this week," I said to a group of girlfriends while out for dinner. "Why else would they invite media?" My pals all nodded and mumbled in agreement.

I headed to Whistler Monday evening, ready to celebrate, or commiserate, with the young chef in question.

We kicked things off - as is the tradition at the Bearfoot Bistro - in the wine cellar, where owner André St. Jacques loves to give guests a chance to sabre the corks out of Moët & Chandon Brut Imperial bottles. He told us of his excitement at Stewart's Top Chef showing and said it was going to be a great episode.

"Make sure you watch all the way to the end," he told us as he raised his glass. "It's a good one."

That was telling, I thought smugly.

We started with a clever amuse bouche of "deconstructed BLT" (tomato seeds, lettuce velouté and bacon powder on a spoon) while onscreen, we saw another competitor go home for his bland soup and sandwich combo during the "high stakes elimination Quickfire challenge."

Our Salad of Spring Vegetables was a dead ringer for the one Stewart made for the Top Chef judges: crunchy green beans and whisper-thin shavings of radish on porcini "soil" and a puff of goat cheese. It was perfectly paired with the elegant 2010 Domaene Gobelsburg Gruner Veltliner.

He did not make for us his potato risotto that the judges called a disaster. Instead, my luscious black cod rested on grilled white asparagus, earthy morels, and was that Jerusalem artichoke foam on the plate? (Yes, he made foam; it seems to be his signature move now.) Equally buttery 2008 La Soufrandiere Pouilly-Vinzelles hit just the right note alongside.

This could be it, I thought (as I swooned over my dinner), we were watching Stewart's last episode. His team lost the challenge and the judges critiqued him harshly. In real time I watched his face in the kitchen to see if I could read his disappointment.

So much for my journalistic instincts. Stewart hadn't won the Quickfire Challenge, he didn't get eliminated, nor did he win the Elimination challenge.

"I would really love to tell you guys who won it all, but I can't," said Stewart. "I can't tell anyone."

We headed into the bistro's Belvedere Ice Room (chilled to a frosty -40 C) to toast his continued success with several shots of premium vodka. The rest of the evening, frankly, is a bit fuzzy. Next week I'll be watching from home, with much less alcohol. If you can get up to Whistler, the Bearfoot Bistro will once again screen the show and dish up a matching menu. It all starts at 7 p.m. The Bearfoot Bistro is at 4121 Village Green, Whistler. Call 604-932-3433, or visit www. bearfootbistro.com for details.

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