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A celebration of cocktail culture

"WANT a shot with that?" asked Donnelly Group's Trevor Kallies. Why weren't we surprised? Of course! Mornings at Tales of the Cocktail on Tour would have to start with coffee. And a shot of "Irish." "Sure.
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The Keefer Bar's Danielle Tatarin double shakes a Haok.n - Hendrick's Gin, Aperol, Pomelo rose tea syrup and more.

"WANT a shot with that?" asked Donnelly Group's Trevor Kallies.

Why weren't we surprised? Of course! Mornings at Tales of the Cocktail on Tour would have to start with coffee. And a shot of "Irish."

"Sure." After all it just seemed to be, well, polite. Even if not strictly in the name of research. And maybe Tullamore Dew was a healthier addition than a scoop of marshmallows, a spoonful of chocolate shavings or a dollop of whipped cream.

At cocktail vortex Fairmont Pacific Rim, staring down such indulgence was all in a day's (and night's) work for members of the Canadian Association of Professional Bartenders. That's the organization credited with luring the celebrated New Orlean's cocktail festival to Vancouver in the first place. Not just once but twice.

It's the first and only "Tales" outreach event so far. And that adds up to quite a feather in our town's cap.

Enthuses TOTC co-founder Ann Tuennerman, "Vancouver is such a rich, vibrant cocktail city. We couldn't help but come back for a second year."

In quintessentially Canadian tones, Vancouver organiser Jay Jones (lead bartender at Shangri-La's Market, recently crowned En Route magazine's Bartender of the Year), insists that all the heavy lifting is done by the New Orleans team (who are professional indeed) and that he's "just along for the ride."

Not quite. Jones and local cohorts have spent the last few years working diligently to build this city's cocktail culture, so much so that it's now regularly hailed internationally.

Liquor companies have been known to throw the odd dollar around, so it would be easy to dismiss TOTC as a marketing ploy. Except that's not the case. While big names in the biz such as Bacardi, Gibsons and Hendricks are indispensable in making it all happen, what's striking about this three day cocktail extravaganza is the degree to which local products and talent are invited to ride on the coat tails of the heavy hitters of the liquor world.

Over a few days we were introduced to some truly remarkable flavours and creative combinations - such as St. Germain's seductive Elderflower Liqueur, combined with single malt Bruichladdich Peat, Cynar (Italian artichoke liqueur) and Phillips Blue Buck Ale. An unlikely alliance, perhaps, but crafted by Tableau Bistro bartender "JS," it turns into a layered, complex and delicious drink.

More local liquids also prove memorable. At Meet the Maker, presented by the American Distilling Institute, we discover small producers such as San Juan Island Distillery, whose Spy Hop Gin turns out to partner perfectly with their Lavender and Wild Rose Liqueur (two parts to one) to make a lavender martini.

It's also part of the program that a bevy of talented Canadian shakers get to play on the same team as internationally acclaimed, British mixologist Charlotte Voisey and Bitters guru, Kiwi Jacob Briars. And yes, who would have thought that 150 people would show up for a seminar on bitters? But it was brilliant.

More evidence of bitters' rising star comes with the release of Kale & Nori Culinary Arts Bittered Sling, four locally crafted flavours from Kale & Nori coowner Lauren Mote.

While Vancouver's bar culture may well be flourishing, it remains an ongoing challenge to vault the cocktail into the realm of food pairing. However, a sip of ever-so-slightly briny Islay 12-year-old Bowmore brings out unexpected nuances in a freshly shucked oyster. And surprises even more when sipped with another bivalve, this time garnished with freshly grated horseradish. Yet another encounter finds Forty Creek Barrel Select Canadian Whisky marching in time with juicy pulled pork sliders teased with Forty Creek barbecue sauce.

Is Tales Vancouver here to stay? It should be. Stay tuned.

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Belly's Budget Best ? MASI Modello Bianco 2010. Pinot Grigio (85%) dominates this refreshing, very food friendly Northern Italian that sports just a touch of oak, which adds a touch of creaminess to its stonefruit palate, with citrus and mineral hints. Good with seafood risotto, or stir fried pork tenderloin. But also a fine value sipper; BCLS $11.99.