I was in the middle of a gaggle of interviews somewhere (it’s all a blur!) and a winemaker/owner said he was pouring a winter white! The term stayed with me.
Most of us switch from summer whites to increasingly heavier reds when the winter cold and wet sets in. Fair enough. They go well with stews, soups, confit, cassoulet and oven birds.
A winter white, on the other hand, has to have weight, texture and the ability to pair with all those dishes too. Fat chards come to mind, Chablis, some pinot gris and chenins, specifically Vouvrays. Rieslings from Alsace, Soave from Italy, Mondavi fumé blanc. White blends from Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
David Lancelot from Kelowna’s Experience Wine Tour says he looks for a “flavour echo” in which what you taste in the wine can also be tasted in the food. TK Example I think of Oldfield Series 2 Bench White from Tinhorn Creek, a blend of semillion, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, viognier and muscat. There’s also Yalumba Y Series Viognier. I could go on. Please don’t forget to include bubbly and rosé.
Here are three choices for Winter 2017/2018
Road 13 VRM. A blend of viognier, roussanne and marsanne. The texture is rich and oily, intense. Flavours of stone fruit; peach, nectarines, apricots. Very Earthy. Like eating a peach pie. Pairs beautifully with pork. $29 at Coal Harbour Liquor Store.
Painted Rock 2016 Chardonnay. The flavour profile of Painted Rock’s chardonnay has changed in two years. Not because they wanted to (it was a very popular wine.) The vines’ roots have worked their way through the top soils and into the gravel below and now it starts to have the profile of a Montrachet, with notes of baking spices, butter, apple and oak. 60 per cent Malo gives it a glorious mouth feel which works well with almost anything you prepare this winter. At $35 all-in it’s a bargain. At Legacy Liquor Store.
Little Engine Wines Chardonnay. From the Naramata Bench, which specializes in chards. Layers of bright acidity, texture, oak and baking. Pairs with stews, root veggies and cassoulet. Silver Chardonnay ($30) and Gold Chardonnay ($55) at shop.littleenginewines.com
Wind, cold, rain and sleet? Bring it on.
