The title for most charming and well-appointed marina resort of our region must belong to Roche Harbor. Beautifully sheltered on the northwest tip of San Juan Island, Washington, this historic spot has been welcoming visitors to its dock and cobblestone paths since the late 1800s.
Friday: Boaters check in at the customs dock, locate their slips amongst the 375 on offer, thank the helpful dockhands (smartly dressed in polo shirts), and hightail it to the Madrona Bar & Grill for happy hour. The Madrona is known for barbecued ribs and interesting cocktails (Pig War Martini* anyone?) Summer evenings, Roche Harbor staff participate in a traditional Retiring the Colours ceremony before sunset. Very hospitably, “O Canada” and “God Save the Queen” are played as the maple leaf and Union Jack are lowered, leading up to the “Star Spangled Banner’s” big finish. With a glass in hand and hand on heart, you’ve not felt this patriotic since the Olympic Games. The ceremony is complete when the cannon fires, a highlight.
Saturday: After breakfast at the Lime Kiln Café (or coffee and fresh pastries at the Beechtree Café), collect a bicycle from Susie’s Moped Rentals to cruise the island’s safe and scenic roads. For the mildly ambitious, a sixteen-kilometre rolling ride south delivers you to the seaside town of Friday Harbor. Wander around the shops before feasting on fresh Dungeness crab, known for its sweet, mild flavour (and a great vehicle for garlic butter). On the ride home, keep one eye peeled to spot a camel taking shade in a bucolic field. Alternatively, head west to explore the English Camp once belonging to the Hudson’s Bay Company, to learn about the Pig War of 1859, a dispute between the British and Americans over San Juan Island and the U.S. border. The spat began when an American farmer defending his crop, shot a British pig on a fateful hunt for potatoes. The situation escalated to three warships being deployed by the Brits. Ownership of the island was eventually settled through peaceful arbitration, but to think it all began with a pig!
Back at Roche Harbor, stretch your legs with a walk through the woods to a stunning mausoleum; built by John S. McMillin, founder of the Lime and Cement Company. At one time, his were the largest lime works west of the Mississippi. McMillan opened the Hotel de Haro in 1886 to welcome customers and guests, which over the years included presidents Theodore Roosevelt and Howard Taft.
Will it be supper on board tonight prepared with fresh fish from the seafood stand, or did you make an advanced reservation for dinner at McMillan's?
Sunday: “Why don’t we go to church, Dad?” I once asked as a child, gazing across the water at an impossibly charming country chapel. “Because we have the boat,” my father answered, mater of factly, not even glancing up from the weekend paper. The very picturesque Our Lady of Good Voyage Chapel sits perched on a bluff overlooking the marina. If you’re so inclined, mass is on offer during summer. For the rest of us, there is brunch. Work off the shrimp Benedict over ten kilometres of hiking trails through forests and around quarries, followed by a dip in the outdoor pool. Tennis, kayaking tours, a walk through the sculpture park, bocce ball by the old lime kilns or a massage at Afterglow Spa can all be part of the weekend agenda. Or, take a stroll along the outdoor kiosks where local artists showcase paintings, photography, clothing, jewelry and treats, then stock up on provisions such as Marine charts, groceries, ice and liquor at The Company Store, selling sundries since 1886.
What to Pack
Marinas are notoriously casual, but Roche Harbor is the sort of place a collared shirt and a great summer dress are not out of place. Remember your passport. Roche is a point of entry for pleasure vessels entering U.S. waters.
When to Go
June through mid-September the resort is in full swing, with Memorial Day weekend kicking things off.
Getting there
Boat: 53.8 nautical miles from Vancouver via Active Pass
Plane: Paved airstrip can accommodate small airplanes
Floatplane charters: Seair, 604-273-8900, Harbour Air, 604-274-1277
Drive: I5 via Anacortes Ferry to Friday Harbour
