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THE DISH: Here are the best meals I had on the North Shore in 2019

I have yet to reconcile the actual time of year with my perceived time of year. By my count, it ought not to be autumn yet, let alone the advent of a new year heralding a new decade.
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I have yet to reconcile the actual time of year with my perceived time of year. By my count, it ought not to be autumn yet, let alone the advent of a new year heralding a new decade. And yet here I am assembling the annual Best Of dining list for 2019.

Unlike in previous years, the very top honours did not go to newly opened restaurants, but rather to well-established ones that tried something new and knocked it out of the park.

So here are the surest bets for a great experience as you head into 2020, in dramatic countdown order.

Seaside Provisions
Recently reviewed for brunch just two weeks into operation, sexy cocktails and a stylish Shipyards-facing room combined to leave a positive impression of the newly opened Seaside Hotel’s approach to food and beverage. A trio of creatively garnished oysters on the half shell paired with a toasty and buttery Cremant de Bourgogne sparkling stole the show, with an elegantly plated ceviche of striped bass holding its own as well.

Seafood towers represent excellent value here and the dinner scene is a welcome example of hotel dining done right.

125 Victory Ship Way (at the Seaside Hotel in the Shipyard District). Seasideprovisions.com.

Hachiro Ramen Bar
A cool, contemporary interior esthetic sets the tone for this modern twist on traditional ramen. Brother and sister ownership duo Stephen Naito and Brooke Campbell have successfully realized a singular vision for a neighbourhood ramen spot that at once honours the heritage from which they hail while raising the bar significantly on stylish dining standards in central Lonsdale. Chicken karaage proved expertly realized, crispy and moist with a lift of chilli honey, while poached lobster with orange miso butter was a surprising find. Spicy shoyu ramen revealed tremendous depth of flavour and married nicely with junmai sake on tap, a first time experience for me.

Hachiro Ramen Bar, 140 West 16th St., North Vancouver. Hachiroramen.com.

Rumi House
A sprawling, large party-friendly venue in the old Neighbourhood Noodle House location at Lonsdale and 14th Street, the instantly popular Rumi House is a welcome addition to a crowded category, taking the mantle of best Persian cuisine on the North Shore, in my opinion. Outstanding kebabs, perfect rice, and the single best kashke bademjan (roasted eggplant and yogurt dip) that I have ever tasted highlight the offerings here. Unexpected volumes on the date of my visit resulted in a disappointing absence of sangak bread to accompany my meal, but the professional service that quickly mobilized with an alternative, paired with truly exceptional flavours on my plate, made the oversight a petty annoyance at worst.

1352 Lonsdale Ave. Rumihouse.ca

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A dish of crispy prawn at Ancora Ambleside in West Vancouver - file photo Mike Wakefield

Ancora Ambleside
The North Shore outpost of the award-winning False Creek seafood specialist (occupying the space made famous, also for seafood, by the ground-breaking C Restaurant), Ancora Ambleside is the closest it comes to true fine dining on the North Shore.

The service was outstanding, the wine list deep and smart, the seafood ultra fresh and lovingly prepared, and the opportunity to drop staggering, dizzying, stupid amounts of money bottomless. The most expensive meal of the year delivered on all fronts, however, and I certainly concede that diners need not follow my lead in working my way through each section of the menu in such thorough fashion. This is a great occasion spot and one I will visit with a bit more restraint next time, perhaps popping in to sit at the kitchen bar to knock back a few oysters.

1351 Bellevue Ave., West Vancouver. Ancoradining.com  

Wildeye Brewing
How many are too many, I remember asking back when the North Shore saw its fourth or fifth brewery opening. Remember that? No, me neither. Apparently there is never enough good beer, as evidenced by the bustling scene on this side of the bridges that attracts locals and visitors alike and sees the more popular brewery tasting rooms jam-packed several night of the week.

Wildeye is a great operation with a full service restaurant that transcends the concept of a tasting room. The robust food options were well executed on my visit back in July and I was blown away by the sheer number of taps on offer. Entrepreneur and Wildeye owner Samantha Lindeman has deservedly picked up some awards for her visionary addition to the craft brewing scene. I look forward to seeing Wildeye’s patio launched one day, once the confounding mire of regulatory red tape has been successfully navigated. Come on, bureaucrats, let’s make it a bit easier for our independent operators to do good things for our community, shall we?

1385 Main St., North Vancouver. Wildeyebrewing.ca.

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Orto Artisan Pasta owner Brigitte Raye soaks in the sun while enjoying a couple dishes at her restaurant’s outdoor patio. Orto is among the North Shore’s finest dining establishments, according to Dish columnist Chris Dagenais. - File photo Paul McGrath

Mangia e Bevi and Orto Artisan Pasta
Look, what more can I add that hasn’t been said in these pages frequently enough to question whether or not I’m on the payroll of these operations (I’m not). Two of my favourite spots anywhere, and objectively two of the very best joints on the North Shore, absolutely slay even the most demanding of expectations any time I dine at either of them. Visit them if you haven’t yet. Visit them again if you have. That is all.

2222 Marine Dr., West Vancouver. Mangiaebevi.ca. 1600 Mackay Rd., North Vancouver. OrtoArtisanPasta.com

Lift Breakfast Bakery Ltd.
I visited this charming spot in July to try out their dinner service and thoroughly enjoyed the vibe of the place in the evening, not to mention some truly excellent pasta, with a bright and fresh pomodoro proving a great contrast to a rich and indulgent carbonara. Friendly service, a delicious salumi board, and a tiny but lovely patio cemented my positive impressions. I’m struck by how well a breakfast specialist has realized dinner service, a sentiment that I will echo a bit more loudly in the number one spot of the year, which follows.

Lift, 101 Lonsdale Ave. liftonlonsdale.ca.

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Chef and owner Erik Smith of the BLVD Bistro and bartender Sonja Stewart chat with customers. Dining at the Queensbury Avenue joint was Dish columnist Chris Dagenais’s favourite meal of the year - file photo Paul McGrath

BLVD Bistro
Hands-down, without qualification, my meal of the year. Beloved breakfast spot BLVD on Queensbury Avenue launched an ambitious, but frankly flawless, dinner offering this year that saw chef-owner Erik Smith and his team tackle an eclectic roster of dishes from glorious Navajo fry bread to succulent, sous-vide pork belly al pastor. I spent a memorable couple of hours seated at the bar engaged with a welcoming bartender who helped guide my cocktail and wine selections while chef Smith himself described his menu to me, not realizing the details he shared would soon populate these pages as I raved about and recommended BLVD back in May. Top marks here for ambience, service, food, creativity, and plating.

636 Queensbury Ave., North Vancouver. BLVDBistro.ca.

Honourable Mentions
The most unique Dish experience this year was undoubtedly at the VanCha Teahouse in West Vancouver, where the combination of Zen-like interior design minimalism and a precisely executed tea service ritual created a serene, almost surreal, afternoon respite. A complex and nuanced aged oolong tea, topped up endlessly throughout my visit, provided the foundation for a journey into traditional Chinese tea culture, replete with elegant, conversation-worthy serving vessels and tea instruments, as well as a handful of unusual afternoon tea snacks, a subtle seafood wonton soup the most remarkable among them. VanCha is unlike any other spot in West Vancouver (or North Vancouver, for that matter) and is well worth a visit for both the cultural enrichment and outstanding teas, which span a vast chasm from (relatively) approachable to wallet-bendingly extravagant. 205 16th St., West Vancouver. Vancha.ca

My favourite new casual bakery and light breakfast spot is undoubtedly The Modern Pantry. Chief Baker and owner Kendall Gustavson dishes up a universally delicious selection of sweet and savoury baked goods, top-notch breads, and killer quiche in her diminutive, unpretentious space at 2055 Old Dollarton Rd., just up the road from Maplewood Farm. Gustavson’s deep knowledge of culinary science and cultural appreciation inform the offerings here, to great results. TheModernPantry.ca