At the time of publication of this column, I will have been out of the country for three of the last five weeks, two of those in Germany.
I find that country fascinating in its temporal coalescence of the hyper contemporary and the storied past. In foodie terms, this might translate into a stylish craft gin bar situated in a 16th century statehouse on the outskirts of town, with a much-hyped DJ spinning deep techno-house tunes, for instance, or maybe a Michelin-starred vegetarian restaurant in a restored stone tenement overlooking a section of the Rhine River that was an integral thoroughfare of the Roman Empire.
My German friends and colleagues, aware of my more than passing interest in great food and drink, are always keen to show me their favourite spots to dine and exhibit a particular zeal in exposing me to traditional, regional culinary specialties to test my mettle and develop my cultural acumen. I have, accordingly, recently consumed enough Apfelwein (a cider-like apple brew), Gluhwein (seasonal mulled red wine), Grune Sosse (creamy, herbaceous green sauce with multiple applications, a specialty of Frankfurt), Schnitzel (made most commonly with pork these days), Kartoffelkloesse (potato dumplings), and cabbage of countless varieties to now require a sharp inhale before buttoning my jeans in the morning.
I was fresh off the heels of these in-country experiences when I dropped in on Lower Lonsdale’s Jagerhof Restaurant for Sunday brunch with my oldest daughter, Blondie. Following three decades of operation under original ownership, Jagerhof was acquired nearly four year ago by husband and wife duo Chris and Sandy Gehry, who have struck a careful balance between tradition and innovation that is very much in keeping with my general perspective on Germany described above. The Fischer Piano positioned at the entrance to the restaurant for example, was built in New York in 1887 and is still played by guest musicians, including during Sunday brunch. To facilitate the use of this historic instrument, a local tuning expert was required to apply a modern industrial epoxy to the original wooden pinblock to permit ongoing tuning. The room is full of these conversation pieces (check out the 1930s telephone still used to call cabs for guests), inviting a combined air of nostalgia and wonder.
Blondie was fascinated with the place, remarking on the taxidermy, old photos, instruments and paintings that line the walls and insisting that we stayed on after our meal long enough to hear the piano played for at least a tune (Sunday brunch begins at 10:30 a.m. but the live music kicks off at noon). She was similarly fascinated with the look of many of the dishes that went out to other tables and was torn between a delicious looking Potato Roesti topped with poached egg and an enormous crepe topped with whipped cream and fresh fruit. She ultimately opted for the latter and was presented with a 10-inch crepe dusted lightly with confectioner’s syrup, topped with preserved peach segments, a mountain of fresh whipped cream, and ramekin of warm maple syrup. The crepe was approximately five millimetres thick, which allowed for delicious griddle-fried caramelization to occur, adding extra richness and complexity to the dish.
I opted for a savoury brunch, ordering a Caesar salad to start. The salad was generously portioned and boasted deep garlic notes thanks to slivers of crispy fried garlic, as well as crispy capers, loads of Parmesan and buttery, house-made croutons. For my main, I chose Kasseler, a traditional cured pork chop that requires 48 hours of salt-brining followed by quick hot smoking, yielding a fully-cooked, but still pink, moist and delicious meat with subtle smoky notes and a saltiness not unlike holiday roast ham. The Kasseler was topped with a sunny-side-up fried egg and a hearty portion of delicious pan-fried potatoes. The dish was outstanding and not like anything else I have found on local brunch menus. The Kasseler was cured and smoked by North Shore German meats specialist Black Forest, which is also responsible for some of Jagerhof’s traditional wurste (sausages), along with Hills Foods.
I washed down my meal with a bottle of Radeberger beer, a refreshing, hop-forward Saxon Pilsner. Blondie washed down her pancake with a scoop of house-made, aromatic, creamy vanilla and tonka bean ice cream.
Other Jagerhof brunch menu items include a variety of Schnitzel preparations (all pork), a hash served in a cast iron pan, Bratwurst, Eggs Benedict, French toast and more.
Owner Chris Gehry was on hand during our meal, training a new server. The hospitality throughout the meal was warm and engaging, sort of like hitting up a friend’s place for a meal. This is not your typical big-box, process guests like numbers, approach to brunch. For that, just as Blondie told Gehry at the conclusion of our meal, I say vielen dank.
Jagerhof is located at 71 Lonsdale Ave. North Vancouver. Jagerhof.ca. 604-980-4316.
