I’ve had an unforgivable amount of insipid fish and chips in my life. Some of it was prepared at establishments that really ought to have had their game dialled given the money they charged.
I find poorly executed fish and chips particularly infuriating because I know how good the dish can be when created by deft hands. This feeling was further cemented this week as I tucked into panko-breaded cod with hand cut fries prepared by Carson Graham culinary arts students and found their version to be not only far superior to so much of what passes for fish and chips at restaurants on our market, but actually approaching greatness in its own right.
I went to check out the offerings at the high school as the idea of a meal made by hungry, inspired young cooks was intriguing to me. Would they be radical in their interpretations of dishes or would the academic program emphasize perfecting classics first before riffing too hard? My Wednesday night dinner supported the latter approach, which I found comforting as I so frequently encounter dishes seemingly born of a run before walking mentality.
Wednesdays and Thursdays through May will play host to new menus in the Vancouver Community College (VCC) Culinary Arts Dinner Series at Carson Graham secondary. From 5:30 to 6:30, Carson Graham culinary arts students (the program feeds into VCC) put their best foot forward with menus that include four to five entrees (ranging from casual fare like Meatball Subs with Parmesan and Arugula to more complex fare like Braised Pork with Savoury Corn and Cheddar Bread Pudding), salads, soups, sides and desserts. There are a la carte prices (nothing is more than $9) but the real value is in the multi-course menus priced at $15 for three courses or $12 for two.
My wife and two of my kids were in tow and the four of us ate exceptionally well for $50, a value I would suggest would not be found for similarly thoughtful, patiently executed food anywhere else. High School cafeteria surroundings and standard issue brown trays notwithstanding, diners would be hard-pressed to identify the food in this series as hailing from teenaged student cooks. I was truly impressed with the meal across the board, right through my extraordinarily subtle and delicate orange creamsicle pannacotta with lemon curd, which had the precise soft-set, velvety texture that so many professional dessert kitchens seem to find so elusive.
DJ had Vegetarian Lasagna, which was generously portioned and contained a host of vegetables such as zucchini, eggplant, bell peppers and, magically, no trace of mushrooms, the typical default ingredient in non-meat pasta dishes. The lasagna was cheese-heavy, nicely seasoned, and held its shape well as it was not drowned in sauce. My son’s Meatball Sub was a hefty hero, containing three golf ball-sized meatballs of tender, moist, and lean beef slathered in aromatic tomato sauce with melted Parmesan and a handful of fresh, peppery arugula. A side salad of tender baby leaves was tossed in a simple, effective vinaigrette and a handful of house made, golden and crispy potato chips were a fantastic starch accompaniment.
For my meal, I chose a Chicken Schnitzel Sandwich, a fun and casual dish that offered a friendly nod to its Germanic inspiration with braised cabbage and house pickles set atop the crispy chicken fillet. My dish was also accompanied by a fresh tossed salad and house–made chips. In the name of thorough research I ordered a side of the Corn and Cheddar Bread Pudding, a solid and densely packed rectangle of cheesy goodness with nice herbaceous notes and caramelized edges.
Now back to that cod, the true star of the meal. The panko-crust was very evenly applied, almost as if it had been painted on, resulting in a perfectly crispy, at no point overwhelming, thin golden veneer that added a hint of texture to the succulent fillet underneath. Two such fillets, easily 125 grams apiece, by my calculations, comprised the central component of the dish, which also included a generous helping of roasted vegetables (broccoli, carrot, pepper, and squash), as well as fries and tartare sauce. The dish was $9 a la carte, or $12, as we had it, with a dessert.
While the pannacotta was my favourite of the dessert lineup on the evening of my visit, it needs to be said this young kitchen team turns out a mean carrot cake as well, moist, spicy and weighty, topped lightly with cream cheese frosting. Additional desserts of miniature brownies with caramel and peanut butter, and Toffee Cake with whipped cream and toffee sauce, were both nicely prepared but could not reasonably compete for stomach space by the time I got around to trying them.
I am enthused to see what future weeks bring by way of memorable menus in this program and I urge you regular restaurant diners to give this student series a shot; who knows, you might end up trying a dish made by Vancouver’s next great chef.
Carson Graham Secondary School. 2145 Jones Ave, North Vancouver. sd44.com/school/carson (check out the News & Announcements section on the homepage for menus). Note: this program only runs Wednesdays and Thursdays, from 5:30 to 6:30 p.m. through May 31.
