With the Okanagan so prominent as a wine touring destination, it’s easy to forget that Vancouver Island is closer, easier to reach, and its star is very much on the rise.
A core group of key players seems to be getting the “Big Island” the recognition it now so well deserves. The latest indication comes in the form of the significant makeover of Blue Grouse Estate Winery, in the hands of its new owners, the Brunner family.
Blue Grouse, which was founded by Hans Kiltz and family in 1989, has long been a producer of good quality wines, thanks in great part to Kiltz’s determination to focus on what actually works.
Over the years, up until its sale, the Kiltz family made excellent Bacchus, Ortega and others; and they were major proponents of discovering what else should be planted in the correct sites.
Paul Brunner hired Bailey Williamson, who used to work with Road 13 Winery in the Okanagan. He’s an extremely savvy winemaker, who also understands the need to work with varieties that make sense for this sometimes borderline region.
I can’t say enough about the sensitivity of the new owners towards the founding family. They recognize fully what the Kiltz family achieved. To that end they’ve dedicated the mezzanine in the spectacular new winery building as a tribute to the Kiltzes.
The winery itself is impressive enough, but this thoughtful gesture obviously flows from people with a real understanding of the kind of commitment it takes to start a successful winery from scratch. It’s good to see Hans getting the recognition he so richly deserves after all these years.
The graciously modern building makes the most of the south-facing aspect looking down the vineyard. The view from just about anywhere — from the extensive patio, the main foyer or the mezzanine — takes full advantage of the view and setting.
Even though there is no full-service restaurant (though nearby Unsworth Winery will oblige), there is a commercial kitchen on site to handle catered events and special occasions, of which I am sure there will be several.
Here’s a sampling of what you can find in the bottle:
Blue Grouse Quill White 2013
A blend of Ortega, Pinot Gris, Gewurz and Muller Thurgau, more than 50 per cent estate grown with grapes also from nearby Summerland, adds up to a well-balanced workhorse of a blend with apple, citrus, stonefruit and definite mineral hints ($17, 90 points).
Blue Grouse Siegerrebe 2014
From the Cowichan, brimming with bright ripe apple and grapefruit hints wrapped in juicy acidity with juicy tropical notes underpinned by moderate acidity ($20, 90 points).
Blue Grouse Dry Bacchus
A refreshing departure from some sweeter styles, produced from the original vines on the property, this Bacchus offers up aromas of nettle and honey notes before a crisp but smooth palate with intense stonefruit underpinned by mineral hints before a firm, dry finish. The perfect match for fresh oysters on the half shell ($20, 91 points).
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If you’re a fan of smaller wineries (and who isn’t) you won’t want to miss Garagiste North (The Small Guys Wine Festival), at the WISE Hall, 2 to 4 p.m. on June 27.
This celebration of micro wineries (all making under 2,000 cases a year) brings together some of the best and the brightest, with names such as Anarchist Mountain, Synchromesh, Alderlea, Bella, Daydreamer, Corcelettes, Niche and more.
Cost: $49, includes wine tastings, food truck schnacks by Roaming Dragon, and cool music by Chicken Like Birds. Tickets on Eventbrite under “Garagiste” or by clicking here.
Tim Pawsey writes about wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: [email protected].
