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THE DISH: Restaurant reviewer’s list reveals top meals of the year

A book shop in Massachusetts made headlines this week by posting a photo of their chalkboard sidewalk sign that bore the message: “post-apocalyptic fiction has been moved to our current affairs section.
veggie wraps

A book shop in Massachusetts made headlines this week by posting a photo of their chalkboard sidewalk sign that bore the message: “post-apocalyptic fiction has been moved to our current affairs section.”

On so many fronts, the message resonates; global headlines throughout 2016 read like snippets from overwrought B-movies or works of dystopian fantasy. But as I look back over the year in dining in order to assemble this, my annual Best Of column, I am struck by how grounded the entries all are. There is no pretence here, no high concept, abstruse or lofty undertakings, just solid, accessible, well made food.

I’m not going to be timid here, this list is clearly ranked. This is not some new era game of musical chairs where there are enough seats for everyone. The fact is, the best of 2016 outshined others by doing things better. They are recognized here accordingly, in a list that counts down to the top meal of the calendar year.

6. Bjornbar. This stylish, nicely designed, bar-centric bakeshop could, in my estimation, have made this list for its Brulee Bar alone, a truly outstanding confection that is essentially a rectangle of exceptional cheesecake topped with a layer of crispy, caramelized sugar. The Nutbar, with toasted almonds suspended in a light, sweet glaze, was lovely in its simplicity. Though it is hard to imagine the pleasure of outdoor seating right now, Bjornbar features one of North Vancouver’s best rooftop patios and is a great spot for a late afternoon pick-me-up.

5. Hearthstone Tap & Forno: I was so glad to see this place open after what seemed like an unreasonable delay. Hearthstone’s signature dual forno ovens produce some of the best pizza crust on the North Shore, but their menu runs way deeper, with fun snacks like kettle popcorn with hop salt and malt vinegar, Humboldt squid with chorizo from local, sustainable butcher Two Rivers, and mains that include Beer Can Chicken, paella, tagine, and a thoughtful kids menu that makes the place as accessible to early-evening family meals as it is to later-evening grown-up fun with any number of the brewery’s excellent ales.

4. John 3:16 Malaysian Delights: Though I remain perplexed by its unusual name, one thing is abundantly clear: John 3:16 makes some mean, spicy cuisine. Their Halibut Sambal was the star of my extensive menu tasting back in April. Featuring a remarkable amount of fish for the price, the dish revealed deep and fragrant flavours that somehow didn’t overwhelm the delicate halibut, which retained its integral moisture throughout. Their Nasi Goreng, a dish that sits alongside biryani, sushi and risotto as the world’s greatest use of rice, was a winner too, with a good portion of seafood enlivened by a healthy dose of chillies.  

3. Butter Lane: After an involuntary hiatus caused by some real estate friction, mother-and-daughter team Amy Symonds and Katie Linley re-opened their bakery/tea house hybrid operation in new digs out in Horseshoe Bay. Sometimes what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger. Indeed, Butter Lane is now an even more charming, elegantly appointed space than it was in its original Lynn Valley incarnation, and the baking is nothing short of remarkable. Their Victoria Sponge is a work of art, pairing beautifully with any number of the shop’s high quality, creative loose leaf tea blends, while a simple scone, served with housemade jam, still ranks as one of the best I’ve had; it was buttery, subtle and, frankly, perfect.  

2. Café Ca Va: I had a stunner of a meal here back in September, on the heels of the restaurant’s re-opening with famed chef Alain Rayé at the helm of the kitchen and GM extraordinaire Brigitte Rayé overseeing front-of-house. It was Brigitte that really nudged this dining experience into exquisite territory. Her intuitive, knowledgeable service, good humour and sage wine pairing recommendations (including an off-list pour of syrupy but crisp Sauternes to accompany a dish of citrus-scented foie gras) complemented chef Alain’s gorgeously plated, contemporary French menu, which included, on my visit, Mussels a l’Escabeche, Tuna Tartare, and pork prepared four ways (the braised cheek with shaved black truffle was unforgettable).

1. The best meal of 2016: Terroir Kitchen: Chef-proprietor Faizal Kassam has had a big year with his grand opening in the summer and a steady stream of very positive press ever since. My meal was, to use my own descriptor from my July review, flawless. From the exceptional bone marrow appetizer to the crispy confit pork belly with du puy lentils as a main course, the food, service and ambience conspired to knock the meal out of the park. The tight, focused wine list was also a pleasure, with several interesting by-the-glass pours, including a lovely Turkish rose. The farm-to-table concept is alive and well here, so expect seasonal menu changes and inspired specials that make use of ingredients with fleeting availability (pickled ramps were on the menu when I visited).

Honourable mentions:

Donair Dude: Kudos for the big portions, tasty toppings (pineapple on a chicken donair is inspired) and, you know, for just being a pretty down-to-earth dude.

Deep Cove Brewers and Distillers: A nice, beer-friendly menu now accompanies their ever-evolving lineup of beers and spirits. Try the Candied Bacon Dill Caesar.

Workshop Vegetarian Café: Filling a niche void with tasty, house-made vegetarian and vegan ramen.

Chris Dagenais served as a manager for several restaurants downtown and on the North Shore. A self-described wine fanatic, he earned his sommelier diploma in 2001. He can be reached via email at hungryontheshore@gmail.com. North Shore News dining reviews are conducted anonymously and all meals are paid for by the newspaper.