West Vancouver is absolutely rocking it right now.
Some of my favourite places to dine on the North Shore line the meandering stretch of Marine Drive from about 17th Street to that conglomeration of great restaurants around 22nd Street.
The last two to three years have been prolific for solid new entries on the foodie scene.
My preferred dining route was slightly extended recently with a visit to the impressive new Marine Drive eatery Mer’s Kitchen, located right next door to Inn Cogneato Bistro at 14th Street.
Mer’s is ethereal in concept; its menu draws on diverse influences and traditions served up in a fresh and lovely, French-farmhouse-meets-storied-continental dining-room space. Capacity is small here, with a prominent sign mandating a maximum of 20 patrons, but the room is airy and inviting, with high ceilings, large tables, comfy seats and ample room afforded between groups.
I visited Mer’s on a sunny weekday for lunch, with my wife DJ and two daughters in tow. A trippy soundtrack of electronic remixes of radio Top 40 pop songs lent energy to the room, which plays host to open mic live music on Friday nights. We were greeted by an affable young server who had a clear passion for the menu and made it his mission to ensure we benefited from a few discreet “extras” throughout our meal in order to give us a good first impression; I’m talking here about things like hefty pours in our wine glasses or a sample of a dish we had discussed but not ordered.
Our meal began with a complimentary snack of house-made, seasoned bread sticks that I imagine make use of the dough employed for the menu’s various creative pizzas. I had considered ordering something called the Hermitage Tribute, a ciabatta sandwich filled with Olivier Salad, a famed creation issuing from 1860s Moscow in a restaurant called The Hermitage.
I opted instead for the Lamb Shepherd’s Pie, so our server produced a little ramekin of the Olivier mixture for me to sample with the bread sticks. The cold salad was comprised of diced chicken, potatoes, eggs, onions, and peas in a seasoned mayonnaise dressing; it was delicious. I must certainly return to try it served in a sandwich, finished at Mer’s with spicy chilli pepper sauce.
My oldest daughter, Blondie, went for a safe and predictably tame appetizer of Dipping Meatballs, featuring eight or so lean, seasoned meatballs accompanied by barbecue and marinara sauces.
My old-school appetizer of Mushroom Pops was a fun, retro treat with a novel edge: generous strips of salty prosciutto were crammed into particularly large Crimini mushroom caps alongside jalapeno peppers and melty cheese, which I would suggest was Gruyere, though it was not specified on the menu. The mushrooms represented good value for $9, with six jam-packed caps filling the plate.
DJ opted for a novel creation from the pizza menu, a pie called Popeye’s Treat that was comprised of spinach, goat cheese and toasted macadamia nuts atop a lightly sauced, thin and crispy herb crust. The crust was excellent, light and alternately chewy and crispy, like a traditional Neapolitan, while the fresh toppings conspired to create a rich and filling pizza. She paired it with a glass of cheap and cheerful, unidentified Pinot Gris (wine lists have not yet been formalized).
My Shepherd’s Pie, suggested by our server, was a well-executed, faithful rendition of a winter classic, with nicely seasoned ground lamb and beef married with peas and carrots in a subtle gravy, topped with a generous layer of nicely browned, fluffy garlic mashed potatoes. A little side ramekin of HP Sauce was a playful nod to the dish’s U.K. origins, a fun, unadvertised addition the merit of which was not lost on me. I paired my lunch with a fragrant and bracing glass of house Sauvignon Blanc.
In a rare example of corporate speak that actually translates into something meaningful in reality, Mer’s website offers a vision statement that I think nicely summarizes the chef’s approach to the menu: “I see a meal as an expression of the person preparing it. On the other hand, I also believe classic recipes should stay true to their nature and roots, and not be experimented with, as these are the ones which evoke the nostalgic memories.”
To this end, you’ll find an eclectic mix of classic casual dishes on Mer’s menu, including (but not limited to) Caprese Salad, Brie and Pesto, Southwest Chili, Borscht, Reuben Sandwich, Pepperoni Pizza, Manicotti and Bangers and Mash. Mer’s Kitchen also bills itself as a venue, meaning it is available for private events, and the restaurant does a side business in catering for all occasions. Our lunch, including two glasses of wine, came to $54 before gratuity.
Mer’s Kitchen is located at 1425 Marine Dr. in West Vancouver. merskitchen.net 778-279-2209
Chris Dagenais served as a manager for several restaurants downtown and on the North Shore. A self-described wine fanatic, he earned his sommelier diploma in 2001. He can be reached via email at hungryontheshore@gmail.com. North Shore News dining reviews are conducted anonymously and all meals are paid for by the newspaper.
