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THE DISH: Flavour focused food well considered at Buddha-Full in North Vancouver

It was a rough week. A stomach bug making its rounds through numerous classrooms at my kids’ school eventually caught up with the Dagenais family and decimated us, plucking one member off at a time, starting with the youngest.

It was a rough week.

A stomach bug making its rounds through numerous classrooms at my kids’ school eventually caught up with the Dagenais family and decimated us, plucking one member off at a time, starting with the youngest.

By mid-week, we had spent three days at Lions Gate Hospital with my oldest daughter who required IV hydration and close monitoring in the pediatric ward. Her uncharacteristically flattened affect was very concerning; she is a high energy, enthusiastic sort even on a bad day. By the time the weekend rolled around, we were all thoroughly drained and in need of a boost. Coffee, which I would have had administered via my own IV, had the option been given, and quick bites from the hospital cafeteria, had comprised the week’s sustenance and I was keen for something more substantial, something rejuvenating.

I was pleased to see Buddha-Full Provisions on my review calendar. The West First Street outlet, specializing in “everyday plant-based food,” had been on my radar for a while and, frankly, the timing couldn’t have been better for a visit. I had a strong appetite for fresh, organic and raw fare and so, at the very tail end of the week, we set out on a smoothie-seeking mission.

Buddha-Full’s space is contemporary, bright and welcoming. Tasteful shelving and display tables support all manner of eponymous provisions, from artisanal soaps to infused honey, grains and pulses, cookbooks and scented oils. I’d describe Buddha-Full’s ethos as craft vegan, an organic fusion of urban market and rustic farmhouse. A food display counter at the entrance showcased a delicious assortment of wraps, salads, panini and sweet treats, all gluten free and vegan.

We attacked the smoothie menu, ordering four selections between us. Had I known how large and substantial the smoothies were going to be, I might have reduced the number, especially for the kids. Buddha-Full smoothies are 20 ounces each and crammed with smart, flavour-focused ingredients.

I really appreciate this approach. I find too often that smoothie and juice bars that self-style as healthy and wholesome get lost in the righteousness of their ingredients and forget that in the end, customers are actually going to drink the stuff. Not so at Buddha-Full. Each of our selections was, on the whole, balanced and well-considered, though there were certainly favourites that emerged from our tasting.

My older daughter, still feeling a bit fragile, chose the Buddha-licious smoothie, arguably the safest and most traditional on the menu. Cold-pressed apple juice is blended with blueberries, strawberries, raspberries and banana, yielding a deep purple slush. It was a thoroughly enjoyable, kid-friendly option and the raspberries lent an important tartness to the final product.

I would suggest that tart raspberries or an acidic element of some kind would have enhanced my smoothie choice, the Happy Face, still a tasty and filling drink in its own right, with sprouted almond milk, strawberries, blueberries, kale, raw almond butter, banana and dates.

The smoothie was rich and round on the palate, the almond butter, dates and banana creating a silky texture. As someone who makes smoothies at home nearly every day, I know that you have to watch the kale-to-fruit ratio closely, because the former has a tendency to create a pasty, almost fuzzy texture on the tongue, an outcome that can be mitigated through the addition of an acidic ingredient like lemon or lime juice.

My wife DJ’s selection, the Buddha-Buzz, had something I had not encountered in a smoothie before: a shot of espresso. It worked a treat, actually, blended with sprouted almond milk, raw cacao, banana and dates. It was like a mocha smoothie, with the raw cacao offering a pleasingly bitter chocolate note to marry with the coffee and contrast the sweetness of the dates and banana. I’m pretty sure I’ll be back for this one on a groggy future Sunday morning.

My favourite of the lot was my son’s choice, the Green Guru, a complex and faintly tropical mix of cold-pressed apple juice, mango, spinach, pineapple and dates. The balance of sweet and tangy, fruity and earthy flavours was perfect in this one and I swear I could hear my heavily taxed digestive system shouting its thanks with each sip.

A masala-spiced chickpea wrap with side salad provided a hearty, warm complement to our smoothies. The chickpeas were nicely seasoned with a good kick of spicy heat, though they were a touch wet for a wrap, making for a multi-napkin eating experience. A bowl of curried pumpkin soup, thick, smooth, and heavily scented with turmeric, was a soothing and restorative end to the meal.

Our menu sampling was $65. Buddha-Full is located at 106 West First St., North Vancouver. buddha-full.ca 604-973-0231

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Market by Jean-Georges Restaurant at the Shangri-La Hotel Vancouver is serving a special menu series inspired by the Vancouver Art Gallery’s current Picasso exhibit, Picasso and His Muses.  

Six taster menus will unfold over the course of the exhibit, each paying tribute to one of six muses that inspired the Spanish master’s works. The Shangri-La Hotel operates under the direction of the North Shore’s own Kari Koskela. Phone 604-689-1120 for more information.

Chris Dagenais served as a manager for several restaurants downtown and on the North Shore. A self-described wine fanatic, he earned his sommelier diploma in 2001. He can be reached via email at [email protected]. North Shore News dining reviews are conducted anonymously and all meals are paid for by the newspaper.