Top notch baking has emerged as another North Shore specialty, it seems.
I have had the pleasure of visiting and reporting on a number of remarkable bakeries and confectioneries from Deep Cove to Dundarave. The sweet trail has been extended further west recently with the triumphant return of Butter Lane Bake Shop and Tea House in Horseshoe Bay.
Butter Lane, you may recall, was a charming and welcoming little space on Mountain Highway at Lynn Valley Road, the life of which was prematurely truncated following some tenancy agreement issues.
The mother and daughter team of Amy Symonds and Katie Linley used to toil in a diminutive kitchen in their former space to produce delicious baked goods that could be taken out or enjoyed via demi and full afternoon tea services in a recessed and unexpected tea room at the back of their shop.
I enjoyed a couple of tea services there and found that tucked-away back room to be a welcome oasis from the city bustle, although I sort of wished already back then that the space had capacity for more patrons and perhaps a window or two through which to watch the world go by as I sipped a cup of fine loose leaf tea from the shop’s extensive list.
Well, ask and you shall receive (sometimes). The new Butter Lane is a lovely space on Royal Avenue, a stone’s throw from the B.C. Ferries terminal.
The entire room, considerably larger than Lane’s first iteration, is now a proper tea space, with elegant sideboards and cabinets, shelving with dainty teacups, thoughtful, ambient lighting, and front and centre: a colourful display of Symonds’s and Linley’s sweet creations, including delicate, pastel-hued macarons, meringues, cakes, tarts, scones, bars, cookies, and more. A single, royal blue wall next to the kitchen is emblazoned with an oversized application of Butter Lane’s logo, more of a crest or coat of arms, in this case, rendered in regal gold paint.
On my recent visit to these new digs, I got the sense that Butter Lane has matured considerably since its early days in Lynn Valley, discovering its identity and really hitting its stride in every way. My experience there, on a damp and grey Sunday afternoon with my family, left me nodding my head in appreciation of the sophisticated palates that are clearly at work behind each treat we sampled.
For example, a slice of Victoria sponge, drawn from a narrow, towering white cake dripping dramatically with streaks of bright red berry butter cream, was discreet, understated even, in its sweetness. The cake component, dense and rich, did not reveal even a hint of the cloying and overbearing sugar levels that so often plague lesser attempts at this classic high tea confection. Instead, fresh and bright strawberry jam and a thin layer of the aforementioned butter cream added just enough sweetness to capture the sublime spirit of this favourite dish.
Both lemon and Earl Grey tea macarons we sampled revealed mastery of this complicated confection. They were light and airy, with subtle chewiness, artful colouring and concentrated flavour. The floral bergamot character of the Earl Grey was beautifully captured in this two-bite treat.
A simple scone, buttery and clearly very fresh in its springiness, was served with a ramekin of berry jam and pats of butter. Other common scone additions like currants, chocolate or berry fruits were rightfully omitted from this creation; they would have only hampered the pure expression of this classic pastry that was at play in Butter Lane’s version.
The piece de resistance of our visit, however, was a slice of Coconut Sponge cake, another towering creation but this one marked by a silken tropical character. Three tiers of indulgent sponge cake (of a similar variety to the Victoria sponge detailed above) were separated by ample layers of coconut-infused cream, and the whole affair was topped with a generous coating of snow-white desiccated coconut flakes. For those who cook Thai food at home from time to time, the flavour of this cake approximated that impossibly delicious and smooth solidified layer you encounter upon opening an unshaken can of good quality coconut milk. Simply amazing.
My wife DJ had a pot of Earl Grey to accompany her treats (all teas are loose leaf, served in tea-cozied teapots) and I tried a most remarkable Café Caramel Pu-erh tea, a complex and rewarding combination of earthy, smoky, and round flavours. My son thoroughly enjoyed a raspberry and coconut cream cheese tart topped with a fresh raspberry, which was like his own mini cheesecake.
Demi tea (available any time) and high tea (by advance reservation) are on offer as well and include both savoury items (like smoked Atlantic salmon, cream cheese and rocket finger sandwiches) and sweet items. A children’s high tea is available, as are gluten free and vegetarian options.
Our à la carte menu sampling was $38 before gratuity. 6607 Royal Avenue, Horseshoe Bay. blbakeshop.ca. 604-922-4472
Chris Dagenais served as a manager for several restaurants downtown and on the North Shore. He can be reached via email at [email protected]. North Shore News dining reviews are conducted anonymously and all meals are paid for by the newspaper.
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