With the new year firmly underway, I am taking a hard look at my wallet, still intact even if somewhat battered by the festive storms.
I also took another look at a few of last year’s tastings, and in the spirit of frugality thought no time like the present to recap some budget picks both old and new. Many of us are always on the lookout for wines that taste way more than they cost, and ideally (though not always) leave you change from $20.
One item that belongs in the serious budget buyer’s arsenal is decent glasses for both reds and whites. It’s well worth investing in proper stemware, and if you dig around you can usually find some on sale in the post-holiday season.
Pick up a set of white glasses that will work for both Riesling and Chardonnay (as well as most other whites), and buy a multi-purpose Bordeaux-style glass for bigger reds, including Syrah as well as Cabernet blends. They’ll do for pretty well everything red, except Pinot. It’s worth investing in proper Pinot Noir bowls if you’re serious about Pinot. If you’re not hung up on stemware, the stemless style “O” glasses are often less expensive and harder to break.
If there’s one sure way to make the most of your budget reds it’s letting the wine breathe in a big bowl. It can work miracles for even the most humble bottle.
Here’s a clutch of wines that qualify as some of my top picks, meaning they deliver excellent value for the price.
Fitzpatrick Family “The Unwinder" Ehrenfelser 2015: This variety is one of B.C.’s best kept secrets and the Fitzpatricks know a thing or two about it, having grown it for years at Cedar Creek. Lifted white floral notes and stone fruit followed by tropical notes of guava and apricot on a well-textured palate are accentuated by a little neutral oak ($19, 91 points).
Cloof Bush Vines Chenin Blanc 2016: One of my favourite party tricks is to pour a wine blind (in a brown bag) for friends, have them taste it and then ask what they’d pay for it. South Africa makes excellent Chenin Blanc across the board and you can spend a little or a lot. This one falls into the first category. It’s varietally correct, not fancy but clean and refreshing with tropical and citrus notes. Most people guess well beyond the BCLS price ($9, 88 points). A real deal.
Bordertown Pinot Blanc 2014: One of the newest wineries in Osoyoos enjoys a well-earned reputation as an established grower of more than 20 years. What you may not know is that Pinot Blanc was once the province’s most widely planted grape before the world fell in love with Chardonnay. This particular pick presents up-front citrus and orchard fruits before a well-balanced palate of green apple and grapefruit with some minerality, and a zesty finish ($19, 91 points).
Vina Falernia Syrah 2014: Falernia is Chile’s most northerly winery, located in the spectacular Elqui Valley, far away from the country’s other regions. This Syrah sports plush up-front classic varietal, meaty and black peppery notes with a plush, black-fruited palate underpinned by savoury streaks with approachable tannins. Think hearty stews or braised cuts. This is a great Chilean value for $20 at BCLS (90 points).
Las Moras Tannat 2015: This entry comes from Argentina’s Lujan de Cuyo, a small town on the outskirts of the city of Mendoza in western Argentina. What you’ll find with this wine is a plush mouthful of ripe black fruit with a touch of savoury and easy tannins. It's not complex but worthy of this list for being so easy on the wallet ($14, 89 points).
Tim Pawsey writes about wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: [email protected].
