The Okanagan gets all the buzz at harvest time, and rightly so.
However, it’s easy to forget that there’s a handful of wineries within easy reach of Vancouver, where you can go get your crush fix in a whole lot less time than it takes to drive to the Okanagan, or even to Similkameen.
Last week I found myself shoulder to shoulder with a friendly bunch at Backyard Vineyards, deep in the heart of Langley. The occasion was an informal dinner laid on by Vikram Vij’s My Shanti restaurant from nearby Surrey.
I’ve watched the ups and downs of Backyard over the years with some interest. It used to be known as Neck of the Woods and for a while bounced around between the two names. However, a change in ownership has it now firmly in the Backyard camp, and a few more changes have helped set it on the right course.
One particularly worthy match turned out to be a Vikram riff on pumpkin soup, with garam masala and cinnamon. It was a spot-on match with Backyard’s 2014 tropical-toned Gewurztraminer (89 points). Drop by and you’ll find a pretty stylin’ (recently much expanded) tasting room with bench seating and casual bites such as cheese and charcuterie to go with the wines. With winemaker James Cambridge now firmly at the helm, focusing on small lots and hoping to “push the envelope,” there should be lots to look forward to from here.
The Fraser Valley’s original winery was established in the mid-1980s and opened as Domaine de Chaberton in 1991. The current owners of Chaberton Estate Winery still pay gracious tribute to founders Claude and Inge Violet. Aside from the wines, the top draw here is Bacchus Bistro.
The only full-service winery dining room in the Lower Mainland, it’s a charming spot. The French fare is dutifully authentic without being stuffy. The winery also sources judiciously from the Similkameen and Okanagan and has built a considerable portfolio with production now approaching 50,000 cases annually. What to taste? Estate-grown Bacchus, reserve Siegerrebe and Gewurztraminer, Okanagan Syrah and more.
Almost around the corner is the Township 7, which refers to the community’s original name in the late 19th century.
The vineyard is planted for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (used mainly for a sparkling wine and rosé), while most of the production takes place at the Naramata Bench winery, purchased in 2003.
Winemaker Mary McDermott recently came on board from Niagara, where she’s made premium wines for Hillebrand, Thirty Bench and Peller Estates. McDermott was looking to work with a smaller winery and her first releases suggest she’s a very good fit. Of note in particular is the juicy, floral and tangerine-toned 2014 Muscat, with structure, acidity and great length (91 points).
At Vista d’Oro, husband and wife Patrick and Lee Murphy offer a broader winery and farm experience that showcases their small winery and dedicated “preservatory,” where Lee makes small-batch preserves, that are pectin-free and sourced from their own fruit as well as from nearby farms. The D’Oro is a fortified walnut wine that pairs perfectly with blue cheese and more (90 points).
Currently underway is a major project to restore the 100-year-old dairy barn located on the property, to be refurbished as a tasting room, cellars and a multi-purpose reception and performance centre.
Further east, it’s not far to Abbotsford where you’ll find newly launched Singletree and longer-established Mt. Lehman Winery just a couple of minutes apart and each well worth a visit.
Catch a few of these wineries, as well as many others, at Rotary’s Fraser Valley Wine Festival, Nov. 7. fvwf.ca
Belly’s Best
Road 13 Seventy-Four K, 2012
Okanagan blending at its best, this mainly Merlot blend also sports Syrah with a splash of Malbec and Viognier, plus minimal Cabernet Franc and Gamay. It has superb tension with structured tannins, and opulent blue fruit over plush layers of chocolate, spice, and ripe tannins, with a lingering finish ($25, 93 points).
Tim Pawsey writes about wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: [email protected].
