Meeting with Brent Marris is a little bit like trying to lasso a small cyclone, albeit a pretty friendly one.
You may not recognize the name but Marris is a modern-day powerhouse Kiwi winemaker who grew up in the wine business. His father was one of Marlborough, New Zealand’s first contract grape growers. You could say Marris began his training in the vineyard at an early age.
He went on to become Marlborough’s first locally born and raised qualified winemaker who helped put several major Kiwi producers on the path to success. He eventually built his own world-beating Wither Hills brand (which he sold in 2002).
Home to most of New Zealand’s Sauvignon Blanc plantings, Marlborough has seen a few ups and downs in recent years, although things are definitely on the upswing these days. And Marisco Vineyards (which Marris runs with his wife) has a fair bit to do with it.
Since 2006 Marris has been busy putting his latest project (The Ned) on the world wine map.
The wine is named after one of the region’s tallest peaks, where Marris used to hike, hunt and ride horses. The idea behind the The Ned was to recreate the lively and vibrant fruit-driven style of Sauvignon Blanc (and other wines) that propelled New Zealand to international prominence, explains Marris. His hallmark has been to maintain close quality control, growing all the fruit for The Ned (and for the next tier “Kings Series”) on a single 268-hectare parcel on ancient glacial-terraced deposits on the Waihopai River.
In more evolved markets, such as the U.K., The Ned has taken on a life of its own, where, jokes the winemaker, it’s talked about “almost like Fifty Shades of Grey.”
Considering it sells more than half a million bottles in the U.K., you could say it’s pretty popular. As Marris explains this latest project of he and his wife’s, his mood takes on a more serious tone. Realizing the demand was outstripping their ability to supply, the couple purchased Leefield Station, a historic, high country, 2,000-hectare sheep and cattle ranch.
They’re in the process of planting about 600 hectares to vines. But the balance will be left in a natural state (with native plants reintroduced) to allow for running Aberdeen Angus cattle and Romney sheep.
“This company will never be sold,” insists Marris, who says these days it’s very much about legacy. The couple have four daughters, the eldest of whom is in the process of completing her winemaking studies (also at Roseworthy). The youngest, at 13 years old, has already announced her intention of running the company.
As we tasted through the wines, I was struck by their artful balance of approachable sophistication, all delivered with value pricing.
Here’s some of what you can find:
The Ned Sauvignon Blanc 2013: Tropical and lime notes on top follow through to a juicy, mineral-toned palate with a luscious, viscose feel and dry finish. Fuller on the palate than before, it’s a product of slower ripening, says Marris (classic Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc value; 90 points, BCLS $15.99).
The King’s Favour Sauvignon Blanc 2011: The next step up (from the terraces) yields passionfruit and mineral notes before an intense but focused palate of citrus and tropical notes, with appealing mineral core (91 points, private stores $20-$23).
The Ned Pinot Gris 2013: Pretty salmon colour with floral and stone fruit aromas, followed by juicy pear and peach notes wrapped in juicy acidity. The perfect spring-into-summer sipper, and a great match for lightly spiced dishes (89 points, $16-$18 at private wine stores).
Tim Pawsey writes about wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: info@hiredbelly.com.
