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Classic menu still satisfying

If you had to choose between being consistently, incomparably proficient at a limited skill set and being sporadically, unreliably proficient at a broad range of skills, what would be your preference? The risk-taker in me says I’d likely opt to tackl

If you had to choose between being consistently, incomparably proficient at a limited skill set and being sporadically, unreliably proficient at a broad range of skills, what would be your preference?

The risk-taker in me says I’d likely opt to tackle ever new challenges, even if it meant failing regularly. On the other hand, there is something appealing about being recognized as a trusted expert, even if it is only in a narrow discipline.

This was the nature of the debate that emerged following a recent visit to Fishworks, the Lower Lonsdale seafood specialist owned by chef Shallaw Kadir, the creative force who has also brought us The Sandwich Shop at Lonsdale Quay.

A good portion of the Fishworks menu, you see, has remained largely unchanged since the restaurant’s opening back in 2009.

Intrinsically, this is not a foundation for criticism, but it does spawn an interesting conversation about the merit of innovation for innovation’s sake.

Right here on the North Shore we can find examples of menus that represent either extreme of the debate: some change almost daily, making it very difficult for patrons to develop favourite dishes, while others hold fast to their commitment to stability and proven recipes.

Now, I need to be clear about this point: the Fishworks menu, despite its enduring elements, remains creative, fresh, playful, and based on my visit, beautifully executed. It begs the question, then: why change anything?

Also, nightly specials permit the kitchen to flex its creative muscle, while periodic menu additions and omissions clearly generate enough buzz to keep dinner traffic steady. Indeed, I was grateful to have made reservations in advance, arriving to find the place bustling with diners on a recent rainy Monday night.

My mother, who is visiting from Ontario, accompanied me for dinner. She was brimming with a blend of pride and co-conspiratorial elation at the thought of reviewing our meal undercover and asked, with endearing, uniquely maternal earnestness, if I thought that we had been “made” by the host upon arrival.

Assuring her that our cover was still intact, we turned the conversation to the wonderful décor of the place, which reveals an esthetic that is at once stark and minimalist, and yet somehow warm and approachable.

An inverted rowboat is suspended from the ceiling in the centre of the room, casting its shadow across the dark, knotted hardwood floor.

On the walls, nostalgic black and white photos of North Vancouver’s historic waterfront are tastefully framed in massive, rustic boards that could be reclaimed planks from an old dock. These elements, along with the moody lighting and warm, earth-tone paint highlights, set the stage for an elegant meal.

We began with a shared dish of curry-infused fried squid, a massive platter of light-as-top-quality-tempura calamari set atop a layer of thick, cucumber-laden raita.

Subtle notes of fenugreek and cumin permeated the squid’s batter and gave the familiar protein an exotic edge.

For my taste, the raita, while well executed and traditionally consistent, was a superfluous element; the squid was so good, so light and sophisticated, that the thick yogurt sauce seemed to compete rather than complement.

Next up was an extraordinary dish of Dungeness crab cakes with a salad of microgreens and a dollop of silky wasabi mayo. The cakes were extraordinary in their robust crab content, featuring huge chunks of leg meat bound in a light breading, all fried until golden and crispy on the surface.

A third appetizer of mussels with chorizo followed, confirming systematically emerging evidence that the portions at Fishworks are enormous.

A pound of sizeable honey mussels were accompanied by another solid pound of supporting elements, including a deep, fragrant sauce of tomato, basil and fennel, dense slabs of spicy, hearty chorizo sausage and a half-dozen thick-cut, fried potato wedges with garlic aioli.

A glass of Burrowing Owl Chardonnay and Fairview Cellars Sauvignon Blanc, drawn from a thoughtful, B.C. boutique winery-focused list, paired nicely with the starters.

For her main course, Ma selected Qualicum Beach scallops with green pea risotto and crispy bacon.

Consistent with the appies, the dish was generously portioned.

Atop a mountain of creamy, al dente risotto sat six large, seared scallops, flanked by two long strips of thick, crispy bacon. The scallops were expertly seared and moist, while the salty bacon provided a great textural counterpoint to the indulgent rice.

For my main course, I chose the curiously named Halibut Poutine, a tasty and whimsical plate featuring a tower of Pont Neuf-style potato fries topped with a meaty fillet of halibut, all smothered in rich and thick goat cheese gravy.

A cold garnish of confit garlic and sundried tomato enlivened this opulent dish and provided just enough punch to contrast the beautifully prepared halibut (these folks know how to cook seafood) without overwhelming it.

A glass of young and bright Cassini Cellars Pinot Noir offset the richness of the “poutine.”

Our meal was $138 before gratuity. Fishworks is located at 91 Lonsdale Ave. fishworks.ca. 778-340-3449

Chris Dagenais served as a manager for several restaurants downtown and on the North Shore. A self-described wine fanatic, he earned his sommelier diploma in 2001. Contact: hungryontheshore@gmail.com.