This month's spotlight at B.C. Liquor Stores is on Argentina.
Argentina has built its reputation on Malbec. Nothing wrong with that. People love Malbec for its easy-going, low-tannin, fruit-forward approachable style that often over-delivers for the money.
Not to detract from Malbec's affordability, but it is worth noting that a few dollars more rewards accordingly, particularly with wines from plantings higher off the valley floor, as in Valle de Uco and elsewhere, as well as premium Malbec blends. I'm always amazed when I go looking for statistics on how much of Argentina's wine business is tied to the consumer's continued love affair with the varietal. Malbec has become a juggernaut, much in the way that Shiraz did for Australia with not always easy-to-manage consequences.
The flip side of Malbec's success is that Argentina's other varieties continue to live in its shadow. All too often, Argentinian Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Torrontes and even Syrah get lost in the shuffle. In short, there's good value to be found at almost every level. Here's a quick look at a few drops you can find at BCLS, including Malbec and beyond.
Crios Torrontes de Susana Balbo 2014 Widely hailed as one of the key players behind establishing Argentina's wine export market, Susana Balbo became Argentina's first certified female winemaker. This wine comes from her Dominio del Plata winery, in Lujan de Cuyo. Floral and stonefruit on the nose followed by luscious viscosity and balanced acidity. Match with Waldorf salad, grilled chicken or seared scallops with orange reduction (BCLS $14.99, 91 points).
Alamos Chardonnay 2013 Tropical and floral notes on top with some toasty notes followed by apple and stonefruit on the palate with good mouthfeel and a clean finish. A perfect patio sipper or match with simply prepared seafood or chicken dishes (BCLS $13.29, 89 points).
Vistalba Corte C 2013 Celebrated winemaker Alberto Antonini has a hand in this mainly Malbec blend (made from 60-year-old vines in Lujan de Cuyo), with Cabernet Sauvignon and Bonarda blended in to give it extra heft. Look for plummy notes and dried berries on top followed by a plush palate of seductive red fruit and mocha notes plus earthy hints wrapped in sound tannins (BCLS $18.79 LTO, 90 points).
Clos de Los Siete 2012 This wine epitomizes the return you can get on those few extra dollars. Made under the supervision of global wine wizard Michel Rolland from higher elevation plantings in the Valle de Uco district of Vista Flores. Wide diurnals (the difference between day and night-time temperatures) deliver well-balanced ripeness and acidity. With its lifted aromas of red and black fruit, juicy but not extracted fruit-forward style, elegant mouthfeel, well-integrated tannins and stony hints, this Malbec dominant blend with Merlot, Cab, Syrah, and Petit Verdot delivers superb value. Hand picked and hand sorted. An overall elegant package that shows just how well-blended Malbec can shine (BCLS $22.49, 91 points).
Escorihuela 1884 Reservado Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Another great example of good value other than Malbec. This very approachable estate-grown Cabernet adds up to the perfect barbecue wine with its cassis and vanilla notes on top, followed by textbook graphite, tea and spice hints in a medium-bodied palate and surprising structure for the bucks ($15.84, 90 points).
Tim Pawsey writes about wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: info@hiredbelly.com.
