Palki, a cornerstone of fine Indian cuisine on the North Shore, has successfully done what many other established restaurants have struggled to achieve: it has thoroughly contemporized itself while still preserving the foundations of its identity.
The restaurant completed a wholesale interior renovation in July of 2013 that has effectively transformed the decor and ambience of the place into something quite extraordinary.
Palki's new deep purple leather banquettes look opulent under the subdued light cast by understated glass chandeliers that hang above each table. Heavy and rustic copper-hued goblets, sourced directly from India, adorn each place setting, complementing the room's warm colour scheme, which is all earthy oranges and yellows that give way to the natural brown notes of distressed, reclaimed hardwood flooring. On the back wall there is an imposing, richly textured rendering of a peacock, its brilliant colouring and intricate patterns celebrating the jubilant and celebratory designs characteristic of the palki, the ceremonial Indian horse-drawn carriage after which the restaurant is named.
Sitting at a quiet table near the back of the restaurant late one recent evening with my wife DJ, I was struck by how Palki's interior redesign has so radically changed the experience of dining there. Like many North Shore residents, I have been frequenting Palki for many years.
My first experience with their cuisine, more than a decade ago, was a delicious take-out meal the scents of which completely filled the air of the 450 square-foot apartment I was living in at the time, making a pedestrian dwelling feel exotic, at least for a short time.
Since then I have been back many times to delight in friendly, approachable service and consistently great Northern Indian food. However, with so many new restaurant openings around town in the last couple of years (some of which are direct competition for Palki) I suppose I had neglected this stalwart favourite, not realizing that while I was gallivanting about, the restaurant was quietly pursuing an impressive program of revitalization.
Walking into the new Palki was sort of like running into that portly ex who has trimmed down, toned up, cultivated some fashion sense and seems to be doing exceptionally well without you, thank you very much.In any event, as is the case with all restaurants, the real test of their mettle is in the food. I am happy to report that Palki's cuisine is every bit as good as it ever was, perhaps even better in the wake of a newfound confidence resulting from their overhaul.
Alongside the renovation, Palki's menu has evolved to include new selections that draw from a broader range of techniques and styles while a revamped wine list includes thoughtful pairings designed with spice in mind.
DJ and I began our meal with a round of appetizers, the portions of which could easily have passed for mains. I tried the curried mussels, a heaping pile of fresh and plump Pacific mussels served in a thick, richly spiced brown curry with chickpeas, very similar to a Punjabi-style channa masala, only with shellfish.
Deep and satisfying flavours of cumin, cinnamon and garlic dominated. The dish was served with a large helping of hot buttered naan and threatened to over-occupy my stomach well in advance of my main course. DJ chose an Indian salad comprised of lettuce, cucumber, carrot, silky and delicate shaved paneer (a traditional homemade cottage cheese) and puffed rice, a staple of Indian snack foods. The whole mix was tossed in a creamy, slightly sweet dressing reminiscent of English salad cream.
For our main courses DJ and I first shared a vegetable biryani, a giant platter of fragrantly seasoned basmati rice cooked with cauliflower, tomato, bell peppers, onion, zucchini, carrots and peas. No matter how many times I eat biryani, I am still surprised by how flavourful and satisfying rice can be, the starchy grains swelling to capacity as they absorb a cooking liquid rich in masala spices. Next up was lamb methi, or lamb with fenugreek leaves, an item not listed on the menu but identified by our knowledgeable server as one the best dishes available. It did not disappoint. Hefty morsels of lean lamb, tender to the bite, were served in a deep mahogany-coloured curry richly flavoured with heady, perfumed strips of fenugreek leaves. DJ's selection, matar paneer, consisted of succulent cubes of paneer, exceptionally rich and decadent, mixed with green peas in a tangy, tomato-based gravy. Perfectly grilled naan and tart raita (in this case, housemade yogurt with cucumber) provided the ideal accompaniment.
I noted with interest that Palki is now also serving a thali dinner for two, a traditional multi-course service that allows diners to sample a wide array of house specialties in one sitting. I will be back for that.Palki is located at 116 15th Street East in North Vancouver. Phone: 604.986.7555 palkirestaurant.com
Chris Dagenais served as a manager for several restaurants downtown and on the North Shore. A self-described wine fanatic, he earned his sommelier diploma in 2001. Contact: hungryontheshore@gmail.com.
