The Hired Belly is checking his notes from a couple of days well spent at this year's Taste Victoria, the annual celebration of Island flavours that takes place in Crystal Garden.

One good reason to attend (aside from the dazzling venue) is the possibility that we'll discover something new.

Even though wineries from across the province attend, many of the more truly local wines, ciders and spirits poured here don't ever get "exported" to the Lower Mainland. That's a pity. Yet it's also one more indication of why the allure of Vancouver Island's (and the Gulf Islands') cluster of bucolic valleys will continue to grow.

The "wine islands" are distinguishable if anything for their penchant towards the esoteric, which is not a bad thing at all. For whatever reason, whether by virtue of geography or perhaps even more ready access to bureaucracy, the range of styles -- from cideries to distilleries -- continues to expand at a greater pace than the Okanagan.

One emerging theme: Ortega, Vancouver Island's most successful white grape (in that it ripens early), continues to grow in stature. Worth hunting down: Starling Lane (Saanich Peninsula), which makes a quite complex, drier, more food-friendly style, as well as the newly introduced, off-dry Star '09, a perfect patio sipper. Another notable: Rocky Creek's Cowichan Valley grown tropical and citrus toned Ortega '09, not to mention their gently salmon-coloured, apple- and pear-toned '09 Pinot Gris, and surprisingly powerful, vibrant strawberry and cherry Robin's Rosé '09 -- one of the best this season. Rocky Creek may well be the Island winery to watch. You can find some of these at Village VQA and Bellevue.

Averill Creek (which boldly claims that Vancouver Island is "the home of Pinot Noir in Canada," hmm . . .) offers a quite smoky and earthy, gently mineral-toned '08 Pinot Noir (which we enjoyed with scallop and braised bison short rib from Aura (The Inn at Laurel Point). However, what caught our attention was the generously textured and tropical-toned, well structured, slightly mineral Averill Creek Pinot Gris '09 (Everything Wine).

As we've said, there's no shortage of ingenuity in these parts. And perhaps nobody appreciates what it takes more than pioneers Venturi Schulze, whose wines we never miss a chance to taste, starting with their pleasingly yeasty Brut Naturel '07, and zesty, mouth filling Millefiori '09 Siegerrebe Ortega blend. However, the kicker was the '09 Terracotta, a more dominant Ortega and Siegerrebe blend that sees some time in wood: complex, with luscious stonefruit layers and a pronounced nutty undertone -- even a hint of coconut. Worth the search, though likely you'll find it only at the winery. (Or, try Spinnakers in Victoria.)

Speaking of ingenuity, we're always intrigued with what the folks at Victoria Spirits (who make Victoria Gin) bring to these events. This time we got to taste a hemp vodka and a barrel-aged gin, not to mention a delightful Victoria Gin, pear, elderberry, and basil garnished cocktail. But the capper is that VS now has its own line of bitters named, brilliantly, Twisted and Bitter. The inaugural is orange-toned, which adds a delightful, zesty "twist" to your preferred potion.

Aside from greatly appreciating its medicinal, stomach-settling properties, we also test drove Twisted and Bitter with a measure of sipping gin. The result was a definite softening of the alcohol, a waft of more floral aromas, and distinctly pleasing, intense orange streak. With its label featuring Toronto's Miss Conception as Queen Victoria, this 100-millilitre bottle's already a hit, and a must-have in the arsenal of any serious bartender.

Fore more details on the festival visit: victoriataste.com