During last week's immensely successful Taste: Victoria, we ran into David Sanders, the Riedel glass guru.

In the wine and spirits world, 250-year-old Riedel is The Glass Company. So much so that they now make a glass for just about every wine or even style of wine imaginable. You want a glass for sherry? White Burgundy (as opposed to California Chardonnay)? Icewine, even? Riedel has one -- and the difference between using the right and wrong wine glass can be like night and day.

Now we're not suggesting you should unceremoniously dump those fine factory turned stems Uncle George gave you for your wedding. But have you ever thought that maybe, just maybe, some wines taste better in them than others?

Generally speaking, the more you spend on a good bottle of wine, the more attention you should pay to the glass you drink it from. On the other hand, we've long used big (Riedel) Bordeaux glasses for just about every budget Merlot or Cab we pour -- and, almost without exception, they'll show the wine in a far kinder light than its due.

Sanders makes his case convincingly by pouring Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and a Bordeaux style blend into all the "wrong" glasses (and even a Dixie Cup) before they wind up in the "right" one. For instance, the "weaker acid" Riesling doesn't show well in a typical white wine glass that might be used for an oaked Chardonnay. All the more reason to use a Riesling glass (which will also work for Sauvignon Blanc).

When it comes to checking the aroma, "Your brain will actually characterize the molecules that allow you to differentiate. In fact, the only difference between rose petal and chicken shit," quips Sanders, "Is the size of the molecule..."

The tempered fat rim on your typical banquet glass doesn't enhance the taste as does a fine rimmed "roll." You buy crystal, says Sanders, because the crystal rim "launches" the liquid to the right spot on your tongue.

The most convincing of this last demo was Averill Creek's Pinot Noir '08, which shone in Riedel's Vinum XL, designed specifically for Oregon (and other northern) Pinot Noir.

In the same way that reformed smokers can be a bore, wine weenies who've moved from downtrodden Duralex to outright wine glass geekdom can also get carried away. But by the same context, while we're not a huge fan of the wine by the tumbler movement, there has to be a better solution.

There is. It's called the "O" glass, the stemless, modern alternative that's taken the wine world by storm. Not only is it less intimidating for many people, its still correctly shaped bowls are perfect for traveling (two in a well-packed box) -- and have no fragile stems to break. They're also comfortable to hold.

A good place to start? This summer we're doing plenty of tasting out of our Riedel Riesling O glasses. Here's a great summer drop to try in them.

- St. Urbanshof Riesling 2008 (Mosel). A burst of apple on top, followed by lively, juicy green apple palate with good mouthfeel and a lingering close -- a great match for a wide range of flavours from spicy to fruity. Or just plain, gently off dry sippin'; BCLS $19.99.

www.hiredbelly.com

www.twitter.com/hiredBelly