An exotic adventure without the hassle of airports and passports is more realistic than you might think.
Travelling to the Southern Gulf Islands I left the car behind and enjoyed a vacation using an “E” bike and B.C. Ferries.
Arriving on Salt Spring Island, David Elderton, of Hill Eater E-Bikes, was waiting with transportation.
Starting off from Fulford Harbour I made sure I had some extra space in the panniers for a growler and a bottle of wine as we made our way to Salt Spring Island Ales where a new tasting room and a great selection of craft beer were waiting for us. Brewer Heather Kilbourne and staff have been busy expanding their beer lineup over the past year.
Just down the road is the picturesque Gary Oaks Winery with Ganges no more than three-quarters of an hour away. The largest town of the five islands Ganges features lots of galleries, eateries and coffee shops.
For dinner checkout Moby’s Pub. Owner Dale Swaggart has added a number of local craft beers from Salt Spring and Vancouver Island. Spring through fall the outdoor patio offers a postcard view of Ganges Harbour.
My first night I stayed at the cottage on Sugarland Farm. Situated on the west side of the island – its five acres is full of fruit trees and bushes – including fig, apple, plum, pears, blueberry and raspberries.
Day 2: Cheryl, owner/host at Sugarland, cooks up an excellent homestyle breakfast to prepare us for another day of biking. Before departing make sure to get a grand tour of the farm. Wonderful sweet, sun-warmed figs straight from the branches of her extensive orchard tasted amazing.
Along the way back to Ganges stop in at Salt Spring Wild Cider – now in its third year, high demand for many of its ciders has them regularly sold-out.
Mid-day it is off to the Long Harbour Ferry for a 45-minute trip to Pender Island (North and South) with its award winning winery, Sea Star Estate Farm and Vineyards. The tasting room and beautiful vineyards are a must–see. During summer there is bus service to the winery.
Pender Island is the kind of place where a hybrid E-bike gets to show its stuff. There are lots of short steep hills that would be exhausting without a little power lever to get up and over.
Smack in the middle of Pender’s two islands is the Browning Harbor Marina with Bridgeman’s Pub & Bistro. Along with a great selection of gourmet food on menu there is a superb selection of craft beers and wines for food pairing.
Recently renovated, this gem offers 15-plus taps of craft beer. Jonathan Duquette, head chef/manager comes from a extensive high end background and the food served is far above what you might expect in a semi-isolated pub.
After dinner an eight-kilometre ride across South Pender Island takes you to the Salmonberry Inn, overlooking a serene view of the green/blue Plumper Sound. The Inn is all about comfort and exudes a very soothing atmosphere.
Day 3: After an amazing breakfast courtesy of Mamie Hutt Temoana, manager/owner of Salmonberry Inn, I saddle up my bike for another day of adventure. The late September morning is cool and damp as I head off on a 12-kilometre ride and glide to Hope Bay, on North Pender, to meet my water taxi to Saturna Island. On my way, I stop in at Jo’s Place to checkout the menu and craft beer. Glad I have some distance to ride, as I can’t resist the all-in-one cast iron skillet “Hangover Hash” breakfast dish for an early lunch. A number of craft beers from Vancouver Island are available at Jo’s.
Continuing on to Hope Bay, rain and blowing wind are lashing at me by the time I arrive at the dock for my water taxi. We load my bike and panniers onto the back deck and I take shelter as firstmate sitting beside the captain Ron. The small boat tosses and bounces across the straight in grey, stormy seas.
We arrive in Boot Cove one hour later and tie the taxi to a float in the middle of the bay. Sunshine breaks through the clouds as Captain Ron pulls a small moored rowboat up beside us and I awkwardly lower my bike into the front of wobbling craft.
As we approach the shore a cheerfully loud voice greets us – Laura Swan, owner/manager of Saturna Lodge. Touring the island we drive up through the coastal rain forest to an amazing view atop Mount Warburton Pike, overlooking the Southern Gulf and Washington state islands.
After our descent we drive to the end of the island to visit East Point Lighthouse. Killer Whales are a common site from this vantage point. The Lighthouse Pub beside the B.C. Ferries dock has a wonderful selection of Lighthouse Brewing craft beers from Victoria. The pub’s cozy ’70s feel and friendly staff make you feel like a regular on your first visit.
Day 4: Take the first ferry in the morning – what is called the milk run – to Mayne Island. We search for any news of a new microcraft brewery is rumoured to be in the works. My first stop was the Saturday farmers’ market in the centre of the island. There is lots of organic fruits and vegetables, including squash, carrots, tomatoes, beets and shallots. Along with that an enticing assortment of savory and sweet baking straight out of the oven.
Balancing out the market are artisans with their hand-made crafts. I ask around about the brewery and am told the daughter of the brewmaster is at the market. After a few minutes I locate her and tell her I am looking for her dad’s brewery. She says it is just up the road a kilometre or so.
At the entrance to a long drive up a mossy road sits a sky blue bike. At the top of the hill a sign announces the Mayne Island Brewery.
Owner Michael Garratt answers a knock at the door and I am invited into the 800 square foot brewery. Apparently some overseas family members had just left after a farewell party the night before and he is feeling a little rough. I manage to coax him to open a few sample bottles. After an hour or so beer iss flowing freely and the damage from the night before had slipped away. The beer is wonderful and Garratt is full of passion and information.
I check in to the Mayne Island Resort with a beach front suite. In the late afternoon an easy ride takes me to the local jazz cafe, The Groove Island Kitchen, back in the centre hub of the island. There is outstanding selection of craft beer on tap and local B.C. wines with the support of an extensive gourmet menu. A hub for local Gulf Island live music makes this a popular venue. If you are planning a two-night stay on Mayne Island make sure to plan an evening here.
The Mayne Island Resort has fabulous suites that look out over the Straight of Georgia.
Day 5: Straight across Active Pass from Mayne is Galiano Island with Galiano Inn and Spa in Sturdies Bay. The lush garden entrance and wonderful lobby with the Kunamokst Mural Mosaic sets the tone. Ocean front suites have a clear view out to Active Pass and the Straight of Georgia.
Galiano is quite a long island with a rolling hill roadway. Matthews Point offers great opportunities to see Killer Whales. Further along at Bluffs Park, there are expansive views of the islands. After 40 kilometres we arrive at the Hummingbird Pub. The craft beer on tap was a little sparse, but according to management that will change this year. Be sure to take a bus ride with the singing driver down to Montague Harbour.
Back at the Galiano Inn bottled craft beer and excellent assortment of B.C. wine is in abundance. During summer months local craft draft is available in the Gazebo. If you are there on Sunday the prime rib dinner with yorkshire pudding is recommended.
Day 6: Circle back to Salt Spring Island for an overnight stay at the Salt Spring Inn in the centre of Ganges. The historic hotel features a generous selection of craft beer/local wines and a great menu.
A Southern Gulf Islands trip is full of adventure and a great way to experience some of what’s available in our own backyard.
If you go:
– David Elderton, Hill Eater E-Bikes, david@hilleater.ca, 250-538-0911 (juicedriders.ca).
